September 2007
Truth
in Trash: Investigating Waste Reveals Food Behaviors
By Libby Mills, MS, RD, LDN
Today’s Dietitian
Vol. 9 No. 9 P. 84
Trash may be smelly, but it’s not
useless. Food waste is helping some dietitians who don’t
mind getting their hands a little dirty gain insight into eating
habits and lessening the burden of garbage.
To understand eating and food behavior, dietitians
are picking up shovels along with their usual trade tools to
dig beneath the practiced frontiers of dietetics, using the
title foodie-ologists. Foodie-ologists crossbreed their dietetics
roots with elements of archaeology, anthropology, and sociology.
The results lead dietitians from the beginning of mankind to
the present and even into the future as they take a closer look
at the by-products of living.
Hmm … this may sound like a lot of garbage,
but one man’s trash can be another’s treasure. What
people leave behind provides insight into society, daily life,
nutrition, food practices, and culinary development. It recreates
history, supports dietetics application, and foretells the future.
Ancient Digs in
Archaeology
Wanting to know the origins of food and dietary behavior and
how each era progressively evolved into the next is a natural
curiosity. But the past is long and filled with oversimplified
images of man spear-hunting mammoths, roasting them over a fire,
and surviving for months on the smoldering meat.
Before man turned from hunting and gathering
to agriculture, the daily menu was whole foods. Indeed, mammoths
and other animals were campfire favorites, as were foraged nuts
and berries. Discovering ancient bones and carbonized seeds
and shells supports this prehistoric menu. But Deborah M. Pearsall,
PhD, archaeologist and paleoethnobotanist at the University
of Missouri, clarifies: “With such little evidence, we
are left to make inferences about the nutrition and health of
these humans.”
Until recently, food knowledge was based on
indirect food evidence: site location, grinding stones, sticks,
cooking vessels, and other artifacts. Archaeologists compared
the relationships of the site findings to figure out how they
may fit into ecological, social, and food systems.
Direct evidence of food is limited by its very
nature. Organic food deteriorates over time. When food was around
and prepared, people ate it—leftovers and stored food
are modern practices—and scraps and waste often became
dinner for rodents and other scavengers. “Cooking accidents,
resulting in charring of foods, can result in preservation of
food remains for long periods. These remains can be difficult
to identify, however, since they are blackened and often broken,”
says Pearsall.
So, how exactly did we evolve from spit-roasted
mammoth for dinner to crawfish étouffée?
Today, coexisting food evidence can be retrieved
from artifacts using flotation and other extraction methods,
isolating isotope signatures, identifying plant-specific starches,
and conducting carbon-14 analyses. Even with this evidence,
Pearsall says, “Archaeologists can really only say what
food was found, a little about how it was prepared, and some
about what other foods might have been prepared with it.”
Recently, starch microfossils of Central and
South American chili peppers allowed researchers to date pepper
cultivation back 6,000 years. The research also links maize
with the chilies.1 The new world Native Americans used an all-purpose
pounder to crush the maize, manioc (tapioca), and chili pepper,
describes Pearsall. Even with no visible evidence of debris,
the starch could be isolated.
One possible inference is that chilies were
used in combination with the starchy maize and manioc. Nutritionally,
the dish provided needed calories and notable amounts of vitamins
A, C, and E. This flavorful culinary combination could have
had social, medical, ecological, economic, or other symbolic
value, but beliefs and practices can only be theorized within
the context. With so many gaps in the evidence, cross-discipline
discussion is vital.
Now, pepper mush is not the same as crawfish
étouffée. But single foods were used as product
ingredients as evidenced by loaves of bread found under Mount
Vesuvius ash in Pompeii, Italy, and in Egypt during the Pharos.
Though people consumed multiple ingredients, as confirmed by
South American mummies’ feces, creating the scientific
thread connecting what was really eaten and how the food was
prepared is difficult.
Varying by region, culture, and time, eating
and food behavior are part of a basic food and social system.
One food system model frames food into stages: procurement,
processing, distribution, consumption, and disposal. In this
context, inferences for charred tuber artifacts may be that
they are cooked leftovers or waste that was not fully burned.
Social system models allow inference about daily
life. Matching cut marks on animal bones to the animal’s
physiology stimulates thoughts of ancient butchering methods,
cuts of meat and cooking methods, and distribution or storage.
At the site, archaeologists would look for a specific butchering
structure, tools used, and distribution site such as a market.
Meat may have been divided up by family or social position,
used as exchange similar to money, to serve political homage
or as tax, or destroyed as a potlatch.2
Food both influences and is influenced by these
systems. Exploring the past fosters understanding of our culinary,
social, and environmental evolution to the present.
From Kitchen to
Curbside
Fresh garbage—and lots of it—is a foodie-ologist’s
dream. Never before has a society produced so much trash. Found
at the throwaway point, curbside, and in landfills, the volume
has changed the level of interpretation and broadened the scope
of foodie-ology to include garbology, or the study of trash.
Dietitians largely focus on food production,
processing, purchasing, and enjoyment as it relates to health.
But what people throw away can be equally informative in dietary
assessment, behavior intervention, and monitoring.
“Out of sight, out of mind” describes
the human-food consumed/trash relationship. From 1987 to 1995,
The Garbage Project, a University of Arizona nationwide study,
found self-reports of eaten food didn’t match the garbage
generated. Like nutrition assessments, discrepancies occurred
with recall accuracy, selective reporting, and withholding information.
Perceived “good” behaviors were overreported while
“bad” behaviors were underreported. Household matriarchs
overreport all food-related behaviors by 10% to 30%.
Garbage data can tell us about food behaviors
of groups, time periods, and households, as well as nutrition
adequacy and cost-effectiveness. For example, the School Nutrition
Dietary Assessment Study-I found that students throw away up
to 12% of their provided food. Girls and younger children wasted
more but not exceeding 15% of total calories provided. Losses
are estimated to cost $600 million.3 While many students chose
nutritious meals, vegetables and salads were trashed most often
along with their vitamin B12 (folate) and fiber, according to
the U.S. General Accounting Office.4
A fad to some and survival to others, dumpster
diving has spawned new social groups congregating through blogs,
meetups, and communities. Spotted at night raiding grocery store
and restaurant dumpsters, the “Freegans” are motivated
by simple living, camaraderie, and anticommercialism. Outside
35th Street Market in New York, divers can find fresh apples,
lemons, bags of prepared vegetables, eggs, and other processed
foods. Though the food may be edible, food safety is of concern.
But locked dumpsters waste what is edible and risk the survival
of the needy.
While Americans discard an average of 4.1 pounds
of food waste each week, thousands are throwing away 15% of
their purchased solid food. Digging through curbside trash may
provide the answer to some foodie-ologists’ suspicions:
“Do people really live off of fast food?”
The Garbage Project sorted curbside trash into
specific categories, such as type of packaging, brand, and solid
or fluid content remaining. Food waste was further categorized
as “previously edible” and “preparation by-products.”
This sorting brought to light several interesting
points, such as consumers who repeatedly used the same ingredients
and foods had greater success with applying health recommendations,
culinary knowledge (storage and preparation), and wasting less.
In 1973, when beef was less available, consumers
purchased low-cost, unfamiliar cuts and large quantities of
beef. Lack of storage and preparation knowledge was evident
with more edible beef ending up in the trash. The project also
showed evidence that fresh red meat purchases decreased, and
consumers were cutting away more fat in response to a scientific
link between red meat and cancer. However, people replaced fresh
meats with ones such as salami, hot dogs, and bologna.
People wasted 10% of regularly eaten white bread
compared with 35% of less frequently eaten rolls, hot dog buns,
and muffins. Hispanics wasted less food than Caucasians, possibly
because Latino cooking, though varied, relies on limited ingredients,
while Caucasians typically cooked with more ingredients.5
Applying these insights to how we influence
consumer behavior gives direction to food product development,
recipe development, meal planning, introduction of new recipes,
food preparation, cooking, and storage.
Landfill Legacy
Waste management can reveal who we are, how we live, and what
we value. In a sense, the truth of a society is in the trash,
and garbage is the legacy we leave behind. The better we manage
waste, the less there will be for future generations.
Garbage is big business. Managing municipal
solid waste (MSW) is necessary, expensive, and revenue generating.
Owning a landfill is for life—filling it and the 30-year
commitment postclosing to ensure the safety of the site. Environmental
protection protocol protects against leakages from hazardous
waste such as leftover pesticides, motor oil, paint, toxic liquids,
and methane gas production.
MSW accounts for household trash. In the mix
of appliances, furniture, and clothing, a significant portion
comes from food packaging and food remnants. Food waste alone
is the third largest component by weight. Most food waste is
from fresh fruits and vegetables, dairy, and grain products,
according to the USDA.
Like other stages of our food system, garbage
has market value at various levels. From the service of convenient
curbside pickup to recyclable sales or imports of volume-dependent
trash, garbage management generates a great deal of money. With
trash traveling coast to coast, its environmental and pocket
price increase with the use and cost of fossil fuel. Food waste
represents food for animals and nutrients necessary for replenishing
the soil and growing the most nutritious produce.
Redirecting 11.9% of the 245 million tons of
U.S. household garbage generated per year can have a significant
impact.6 Additionally, finding workable channels for food waste
requires a local strategy. Keeping trash within the community
creates new business, provides jobs, feeds animals, and enriches
the land. Revenues and benefits stay local.
Reducing and rechanneling garbage requires financial
and legal incentives and education. The goal should be to reduce
the impact of trash now and in the future by considering a host
of ecological, social, and economical factors. This may include
source reduction, recycling, composting, and a movement for
zero food waste.
Corporations have successfully made strides
in trash reduction by using lighter and less packaging materials.
The military meal, ready to eat is a perfect low environmental
impact example with lightweight, low-waste packaging easily
carried with minimal field waste. Consumers, however, have had
varying degrees of success, the most accepted being the use
of garbage disposals. This diversion of food waste from the
landfills is food for the environment, but it reduces the amount
of valuable data for the serious foodie-ologist.
Recycling is well accepted at the commercial
and consumer level. Oil from restaurant kitchens is regularly
picked up for recycling into biofuel. Separate bins for paper,
glass, and plastic food packaging can be found in public areas.
According to the 2006 Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources
survey, more than 90% of households supported the recycling
program.7
Orange County,
N.C.: Composting Made Easy
“Dollar for dollar, this is one of our most effective
recycling programs,” says Robert Taylor, recycling program
manager for Orange County, N.C., referring to a program that
turns 1,850 tons of food waste from 120,000 residents and more
than 25 commercial kitchens into compost each year.
“We try to lead by example by collecting
food and organic waste at county functions, and when reusable
utensils are not an option, using biodegradable cornstarch-based
flatware and paper plates, and then composting reduces waste,”
he says.
Taylor’s program is one of a growing number
across the nation with the goal of zero food waste going to
landfills. Yet, of the 4,000 U.S. composting facilities, no
more than 150 accept food waste.
Each program varies by region and community.
While Taylor’s program started with local pig farmers
collecting food scraps from restaurants for feed and has moved
on to the broader collection of compostable organics such as
waxed cardboard and food-contaminated paper from restaurants,
cafeterias, and grocery stores, others, such as in Dubuque,
Iowa, have graduated to an incentive-based, curbside pickup
that redirects 20% of household waste.
Supermarkets, hospitals, and industrial kitchens
generate large volumes of organic waste. Massachusetts started
the Supermarket Recycling Program Certification for more efficient
transportation, bypassing inspection stations for hazardous
or state-banned materials. In 2006, the program had 80 smaller
supermarket participants. From Massachusetts to Washington,
the ban of food waste from landfills is on.
In addition to incentives, public education
will be key. Waste management, specifically using food waste
as feed and compost, creates a cycle out of the otherwise linear
concept of food from farm to plate.
As advocates of the public’s nutrition
health and a wholesome food supply, we can’t wash our
hands of waste management; it’s part of our mission. Better
practices of food waste management can save money, inspire culinary
skills, reduce waste, and promote environmental stewardship.
In the future, there may be no organic food
remains to study. Dietitians gone foodie-ologists will have,
instead, the health of our livestock and quality of our growing
soil.
— Libby Mills, MS, RD, LDN, is a speaker,
an author, and a wellness consultant.
Fact: In 1995, plastic shopping
bags were in only 1% of landfill garbage, taking 1/5 the space
of their nondegrading paper counterparts.
References
1. Berger JM. “Chili peppers on the menu
for at least 6,000 years.” The Boston Globe. February
19, 2007. Available here.
Accessed July 29, 2007.
2. Samuel D. “Approaches to the Archaeology
of Food.” Petit Propos Culinaires. November 1996. Available
here.
3. Guthrie JF, Buzby JC. “Several strategies
may lower plate waste in School Feeding Programs.” Food
Review. Summer-Fall 2002. Available here.
Accessed July 29, 2007.
4. Lee HS, Lee KE, Shanklin CW. Elementary Students’
Food Consumption at Lunch Does Not Meet Recommended Dietary
Allowance for Energy, Iron, and Vitamin A. J Am
Diet Assoc. 2001;101(9):1060-1063.
5. Rathje WL. “The Garbage Project &
‘The Archaeology of Us.’” September 8, 2005.
Available here.
Accessed July 29, 2007.
6. Environmental Protection Agency. Available
here. Accessed July 29, 2007.
7. Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources.
DNR 2006 Recycling Survey Executive Summary. Available here.
Accessed July 29, 2007.