September 2007
Taking
a Bite Out of Philly
By Sharon Palmer, RD
Today’s Dietitian
Vol. 9 No. 9 P. 48
Attendees of this year’s ADA Food
& Nutrition Conference & Expo can expect much more than
cheesesteaks in this culinary capital.
The historic city of Philadelphia has reinvented
itself as a culinary destination. The streets are teeming with
celebrity chef-owned restaurants, bring-your-own-bottle (BYOB)
establishments, quaint bistros, and ethnic eateries. “Philadelphia
tends to always take people by surprise,” says April White,
food editor of Philadelphia magazine, adding that people who
expect the city’s dining experience to be limited to cheesesteaks
often find much more awaiting them. “Philadelphia is one
of the most exciting and diverse dining cities in the country,”
says Tim Zagat, cofounder of Zagat Survey, in a recent press
release on Philadelphia dining.
The Philadelphia dining scene offers a broad
range of choices for visitors—from upscale dining to unpretentious
local haunts, each offering excellent cuisine. Carolyn Wyman,
host at the Reading Terminal Market Tour, says, “Philly
has great food at both ends of the spectrum.”
Dining Par Excellence
Philadelphia has a number of fine restaurants that regularly
grace the “best of” lists for the city (and sometimes
the entire country), many led by acclaimed chefs with decades-long
reputations. “There are a lot of different restaurants
here that you might be able to find in New York. The overall
landscape is a lot more competitive now,” says Chef Martin
Hamann of the Fountain Restaurant.
Deanna Segrave-Daly, RD, LDN, director of foodservice
channel development at Dairy Management, Inc., chair of the
Food and Culinary Professionals Dietetic Practice Group, and
a local food buff, lists restaurants such as Georges Perrier’s
gorgeous French restaurant Le Bec-Fin (1523 Walnut Street, 215-567-1000);
the dramatic fusion spot Susanna Foo Chinese Cuisine (1512 Walnut
Street, 215-545-2666); Lacroix (210 West Rittenhouse Square,
215-546-9000), a sophisticated French restaurant at the Rittenhouse
Hotel; Fountain Restaurant (see review); The Grill at The Ritz-Carlton
(10 Avenue of the Arts, 215-523-8224), which offers refined
contemporary American cuisine; and Ristorante Panorama (14 North
Front Street, 215-922-7800), with the largest wine preservation
system in the world, among the finest in the city.
Lisa Jones, MA, RD, LDN, the Philadelphia Dietetic
Association’s public relations chair, calls the acclaimed
Water Works Restaurant and Lounge (640 Water Works Drive, 215-236-9000)
“a great place with an amazing view and special chefs.”
Many such restaurants require reservations in advance, so it
may behoove visitors to phone them in immediately.
BYOB Buzz
The Philadelphia BYOB phenomenon is “a unique enigma,”
according to White. BYOB restaurants, springing up as a solution
to the unusual state liquor system, have developed their own
culture. Today, neighborhoods are packed with small, quaint
BYOBs, often operated by husband and wife teams that typically
offer fresh, authentic food with which you can pair your own
bottle of wine. “They are the most affordable, exciting
eating around. Every locale has tons of BYOBs,” says Wyman.
Wyman calls Melograno (2201 Spruce Street, 215-875-8116),
Matyson (37 South 19th Street, 215-564-2925), and Chloe (232
Arch Street, 215-629-2337) some of the best BYOB establishments.
“Marigold Kitchen [501 South 45th Street, 215-222-3699]
is in a cute residential neighborhood. They break the mold;
it’s more about food there,” says White. Many BYOBs
are small and do not take reservations in advance. For a review
of “The Best BYOBs in Philly,” see http://philadelphia.citysearch.com/roundup/38802.
Starr-Chef Power
The landscape of dining in Philadelphia has been forever changed
by Stephen Starr, who opened his first club, Grand Mom Minnie’s,
at the ripe age of 21. Starr promoted live entertainment until
1995, at which time he began the Starr Restaurant Organization
with the opening of Continental Restaurant & Martini Bar.
After the success of this endeavor, a number of successful Starr
restaurants began cropping up in the city, including the Asian-themed
Buddakan; Tangerine, a Mediterranean restaurant; Pod, a futuristic
Asian restaurant; Alma de Cuba, a modern Cuban spot; Morimoto,
serving contemporary Japanese cuisine; Jones, offering American
comfort food; the Italian spot Angelina; El Vez, a modern Mexican
restaurant; and Striped Bass, which offers contemporary American
seafood.
The Starr restaurants remain popular not only
because of their creative cuisine but also because they offer
a visual feast for the eyes—from Buddakan’s monumental
golden Buddha meditating alongside at guests to the sleek, modern
lines of Pod’s dining booths. “He’s opened
a variety of great places that emphasize not just good, interesting
food but are known for their décor,” says Segrave-Daly.
Visit http://starr-restaurant.com to view additional information
about Starr restaurants.
Ethnic Destinations
If you’ve got a hankering for exotic, ethnic food, you’re
in the right town. “There are a variety of ethnic restaurants.
We have Chinatown, the Italian Market, and a Mexican area,”
says White. Jones adds, “We have a lot of influences from
around the world, such as Spanish, Indian, and Asian.”
According to White, Philadelphia tends to be
a very Italian city. And if you’re in search of Philly’s
finest Italian eatery, it’s hands-down the tiny Vetri
Ristorante (1312 Spruce Street, 215-732-3478), which some consider
the best Italian restaurant in the country. Raddichio Café
(314 York Avenue, 215-627-6850) is also growing as a favorite
for authentic Italian food.
But if you want a true Italian experience, take
a ride to South Philly’s Italian section, which offers
a number of humble ristorantes serving up excellent food. Segrave-Daly
recommends Ristorante Pesto (1915 South Broad Street, 215-336-8380),
Scannicchio’s (2500 Broad and Porter, 215-468-3900), and
Mr. Martino’s Trattoria (1646 East Passyunk Avenue, 215-755-0663)
as the best of the best.
Philly’s 9th Street Italian Market (www.phillyitalianmarket.com),
the oldest and largest working outdoor market in the United
States, is definitely a sight worth seeing. Wyman says, “The
Italian Market is a scene. It’s like coming up to Stonehenge;
it seems unnatural in the middle of a neighborhood. There is
old-style Italian food, good pizza, pastry shops, pasta shops,
cheese shops, and meat shops.”
“Chinatown is a few blocks away, but you
feel like you are overseas,” says Segrave-Daly. Philadelphia’s
Chinatown, (www.phillychinatown.com), located north of Market
Street between 9th and 11th streets, is full of affordable Asian
eating experiences. Some local favorites include Vietnam Palace
(222 North 11th Street, 215-592-9596), Penang Malaysian Cuisine
(117 North 10th Street, 215-413-2531), and Rangoon Burmese (112
North 9th Street, 215-829-8939).
The destinations don’t stop there. Tequila’s
Restaurant (1602 Locust Street, 215-546-0181) is one of the
most popular restaurants in Philadelphia, offering—you
guessed it—Mexican food. Cuba Libre Restaurant & Rum
Bar (10 South Second Street, 215-627-0666) is an upbeat Cuban
spot. And Estia Restaurant (1405-07 Locust Street, 215-735-7700),
a new upscale Greek restaurant, has become a favorite haunt
for the locals.
Food up Close
To truly understand the culinary experience of Philadelphia,
a visit to the Reading Terminal Market (www.readingterminalmarket.org)
is a must. Wyman says the Reading Terminal Market Tour gives
visitors a chance to see older, family merchants, some of which
have been in business for 100 years, and sample significant
Philly foods, such as hoagies, cheesesteaks, sticky buns, scrapple,
snapping turtle soup, and peanut chews.
Segrave-Daly says Di Bruno Bros. specialty store
(1730 Chestnut Street, 215-665-9220) offers a wonderful experience
for foodies. While the cheese case alone is worth seeing, you
can also sit down for a quick bite of prepared foods.
Many food outings are on the agenda at the Food
& Nutrition Conference & Expo (FNCE) this year, including
a tour of Reading Terminal Market, a tour of Chinatown, an evening
reception at Di Bruno Bros., and upscale dinner at Susanna Foo.
Culinary Excursion
Time
If you have time for a culinary trek, Wyman suggests a 40-minute
drive to Kennett Square (www.historickennettsquare.com/tours.html),
the mushroom capital of America, which boasts a small museum,
shops, and restaurants, such as Kennett Steak & Mushroom
(Birch and Broad streets, 610-444-5085), a restaurant with “a
near total local mushroom menu,” and Talula’s Table
(102 West State Street, 610-444-8255), run by one of the most
popular Philly BYOB owners.
“We have a bourgeoning wine country in
Pennsylvania,” says White, who suggests Crossing Vineyards
(www.crossingvineyards.com) in Bucks Country
and Chaddsford Winery (www.chaddsford.com)
in Brandywine Valley as wonderful scenic visits. Jones also
recommends a stop at The Inn at Saint Peter’s Village
(3471 Saint Peter’s Road, 610-469-2600) in Chester County,
which offers world-class cuisine and lodging with views of French
Creek.
If you don’t have time to venture far
off the beaten path, the White Dog Cafe (3420 Sansom Street,
215-386-9224), known for its blend of cuisine and social activism,
is a culinary destination in its own right. Located in the University
section of Philadelphia, White Dog Cafe (www.whitedog.com)
hosts a number of community events such as block parties, storytelling,
agriculture tours, and films, in addition to supporting “sister”
minority-owned restaurants.
FNCE has also included culinary excursions in
its program, including A Taste of Historic Brandywine Valley,
Delightful Herbs in the Kitchen, and Monell Chemical Senses
Center.
A Must Taste Experience
There are a few bites you must squeeze in by the end of your
Philadelphia stay. “You must try a soft pretzel off a
street cart—either eat it plain or with mustard,”
suggests Segrave-Daly, who also notes that Tastykakes, Philly’s
version of Little Debbie snack cakes, are also unique and worth
trying. Wyman suggests going to Shane Candies (110 Market Street),
as “it is reputedly the oldest candy store in America.
It’s the real deal with tin ceilings and the owner’s
a Willy Wonka-type. It’s been in their family for years.”
And last but not least, save room for cheesesteaks.
Segrave-Daly recommends Geno’s Steaks (1219 South 9th
Street, 215-389-0659) or Pat’s King of Steaks (9th Street,
215-468-1546) in South Philly as the best spots to sample cheesesteaks.
Restaurants in
the Spotlight
We’ve chosen three top Philly restaurants to pique your
appetite.
Fountain Restaurant
If you’re looking for an award-winning dining experience,
look no further than Fountain Restaurant, which earned top honors
in all three categories in the Zagat 2007 Philadelphia Restaurant
Guide, as well as kudos from Gourmet and Bon Appétit
magazines and a coveted Five Diamond rating from AAA. Located
in the Four Seasons Hotel, the restaurant, which underwent a
recent remodeling, overlooks the lovely Swann Memorial Fountain
in the center of Logan Square.
“We have a talented group at our restaurant
that have been with us for up to 24 years. It helps with consistency
day in and day out. We are constantly keeping it cool and fresh.
We change as much as possible to keep on the cutting edge,”
says Hamann, who describes the cuisine as French with global
influences.
While Hamann regularly changes up the menu,
he claims diners especially adore his lobster dishes, such as
the Duet of Lobster and Jumbo Lump Crab Galette with Fennel
and Potato Mousseline, Marinated Tomatoes, and Shellfish Bouillabaisse
Reduction. Who can blame them?
Fountain Restaurant
18th and Race streets
One Logan Square
Philadelphia, PA 19103
215-963-1500
www.fourseasons.com/philadelphia/dining.html
Osteria
Osteria, a new restaurant from Marc Vetri and Jeff Benjamin
of Vetri Ristorante, is quickly “creating a lot of buzz,”
according to Wyman. White calls Osteria “a really lovely
restaurant with great pastas and nice food.” Guests rave
about interesting combinations of foods that still fit within
a rustic Italian framework. With their wood-fired pizzas and
dishes like Lancaster Chicken with Warm Dandelion and Pancetta
Salad, it’s no wonder Osteria is one of the hottest restaurants
in town.
Osteria
640 North Broad Street
Philadelphia, PA 19130
215-763-0920
www.osteriaphilly.com
Amada
Under the guidance of Chef Jose Garces, Amada is a Spanish tapas
restaurant that focuses on food traditions—rather than
trendiness—and it’s paying off. Wyman calls Amada
“the single hottest restaurant in town right now.”
According to White, Amada won the Best of Philly New Restaurants
in the City last year.
Garces is a local celebrity, with a stint as
executive chef at the Starr restaurants Alma de Cuba and El
Vez on his resumé. “As a kid, I used to love spending
time in my grandmother’s kitchen helping her cook. I learned
the fundamentals of cooking from her and developed passion for
good food from those experiences. My restaurant Amada, which
means ‘loved one,’ is named after my grandmother,”
says Garces.
Amada’s Charcuteria y Quesos menu offers
choices such as Chorizo-Blanco and Aged Manchego with Truffled
Lavender Honey and traditional plates that range from Salt Cod
Croquettes to Shrimp & Wild Mushroom Shirred Eggs. Amada
also features authentic sangrias, such as Tinto with spiced
red wine, oranges, apples, and cinnamon. And don’t miss
the Wednesday and Friday Flamenco performances.
Amada
217-9 Chestnut Street
Philadelphia, PA 19106
215-625-2450
www.amadarestaurant.com
— Sharon Palmer, RD, is a contributing
editor at Today’s Dietitian and a freelance food and nutrition
writer in southern California.
Philly Dining Guide
Check out these resources to help plan your Philadelphia dining
experience:
10 Best, Philadelphia Restaurants: www.10best.com/Philadelphia/Voted_Best_of_the_City/Restaurants/index.html
America Online City Guide, 2007 Best
Philadelphia Restaurants: http://cityguide.aol.com/philadelphia/bestrestaurants
The Boulevards Guide to Philadelphia
Restaurants: www.philadelphia.com/dining
City Search, Philadelphia Restaurants:
http://philadelphia.citysearch.com/find/section/philadelphia/restaurants.html
The Daily Pennsylvanian Dining Guide:
http://services.dailypennsylvanian.com/dguide
Gayot.com, Philadelphia Restaurants:
www.gayot.com/restaurantpages/Philadelphia.php?code=PH
Philadelphia and the Countryside, Dining
and Restaurants: www.gophila.com/C/Things_to_Do/211/Dining_and_Nightlife/223/Dining_and_Restaurants/221.html
Philadelphia Magazine: www.phillymag.com
Philadelphia’sBest.com:
www.philadelphiasbest.com
Philly Foods: www.phillyfoods.com/restaurants.htm
Trip Advisor, Philadelphia Restaurants:
www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g60795-Philadelphia_Pennsylvania.html
Philly Dining
Debate
A recent essay about the state of Philadelphia dining titled
“Fork in the Road” by April White for Philadelphia
magazine kicked off a reappraisal of Philadelphia dining by
Food and Wine Editor-in-Chief Dana Cowin in a June article titled
“What Defines a Great Food City?”
Before the Food & Nutrition Conference &
Expo, check out:
• http://phillymag.com/dining_food_win/articles/fork_in_the_road
• www.foodandwine.com/articles/what-defines-a-great-food-city
• www.philadelphiarestaurants.com/top10.cfm
