May
2007
Restaurants
Get Grainy
By Sharon Palmer, RD
Today’s Dietitian
Vol. 9 No. 5 P. 30
Yesterday’s all-beef patty on a sesame
seed bun is today’s chicken sandwich on whole wheat as
restaurants start serving up whole grain goodness.
Dine at the acclaimed restaurant redwhite+bluezz
in Old Pasadena, Calif., and you’ll select from mouthwatering
menu items such as a vegan-style marinated portobello mushroom
stack with whole grain pearl barley and apple-ginger reduction
and honey ancho chile-glazed salmon with red quinoa.
Thirty years ago, you may have been hard-pressed
to find restaurant menus showcasing whole grains, unless you
happened to stumble into a hippie establishment in a town such
as Berkeley, Calif.
But times have changed. Whole grains are cool,
and they are basking in the afterglow of positive publicity.
Whole grains have been pumped up by the 2005 Dietary Guidelines
for Americans and major health organizations such as the American
Heart Association, American Cancer Society, and American Diabetes
Association. Researchers continue to discover their benefits,
including reduced risk of heart disease, diabetes, certain cancers,
and stroke and improved satiety for weight maintenance.
A Whole Grain Health
Halo
The whole grain message is one consumers have easily digested—they
understand that whole grains are good. “Consumer attitudes
are positive when it comes to whole grains. Whole grains are
cited the most when it comes to what people are trying to get
more of in their diet,” says Cynthia Harriman, director
of food and nutrition strategies for the Whole Grains Council.
The food industry can give itself a pat on the
back for helping to put whole grains on the map. When a mega-company
such as General Mills announces that all of its cereals will
contain whole grains, everyday shoppers take notice. The Whole
Grains Council created a Whole Grains Stamp Program, that slapped
golden Whole Grains Stamps on food labels, further providing
visual reminders of whole grains’ desirability. And today,
a plethora of products—from side dish mixes to chocolate
chip cookies—brag about their whole grain status. The
whole grain baked goods market increased by 18.3% in the year
ending in June 2005. Whole grains even managed to stay above
the fray of the low-carb diet movement, which was in large part
refocused into an emphasis on healthy carbs over refined carbs.
There’s no doubt that whole grains are
hot, but how do they fare in the restaurant segment, a category
that is often last to jump on the health bandwagon? As consumers
increasingly consider healthier food options as a driving force
behind their choice of where to eat, restaurants are starting
to be sold on the whole grain message.
Fast Casual Whole Grains
While fast-food restaurants have recently been mired down with
negative publicity for their possible role in obesity, some
are stepping up to embrace healthier food options such as whole
grains. In January 2006, Blimpie restaurants became the first
national chain in the quick-service sandwich category to switch
out its wheat bread to a whole grain wheat bread developed by
General Mills exclusively for Blimpie. The whole grain bread,
providing one full serving (16.8 grams) of whole grains in a
6-inch roll, is baked fresh on the premises.
Quick to follow were other quick-service restaurants,
such as Panera Bread, which introduced a new line of all-natural
whole grain breads containing 16 grams of whole grain per slice,
serving it at more than 800 bakery-cafes across the country.
Even McDonald’s features a whole grain bun with 17 grams
of whole grains for its Premium Chicken Sandwich.
Putting whole grains on the menu in quick service
is a cinch. Just swap out a white bun for a whole wheat bun
and voila—customers may be able to meet one of their three
recommended whole grain servings in one sitting. Harriman reports
that consumers see whole grain breads as more than just healthy—they
see them as delicious. “People don’t want to see
a soggy white bun in a premium sandwich anymore. They want artisanal,
whole grain bread,” she says.
Whole grains are also plowing into the casual
dining segment. Asian restaurants are more frequently offering
brown rice as a substitute for white rice, some pizzerias feature
whole grain crusts, and some Mexican restaurants serve whole
grain tortillas. The Olive Garden restaurant chain began offering
whole wheat linguini as a substitute in pasta dishes roughly
two years ago. “We had pretty strong, continuous dialogue
with guests, and they expressed an interest in learning more
about carbohydrates and the additional benefits of whole grains,”
says Steve Coe, director of media and public relations at Olive
Garden, about the decision to add whole grain pasta to their
menu lineup.
Alternative Grains in
Haute Cuisine
Creative chefs are finding that alternative grains, such as
bulgur, wheat, amaranth, and quinoa, offer a wonderful palate
of tastes and textures as a respite from mundane sides, such
as white rice and mashed potatoes. “In food trends, we
are trying to go back to basics, to simple food and how you
can use it in a cuisine that matches it. Customers are interested
in the diversity of grains. Rice is old. Alternative grains
offer different textures and flavors that are unique,”
says Bryan Hankins, executive chef at redwhite+bluezz. “I
am using these grains by themselves. The barley has a little
more meatiness to it with earth tones that go well with mushrooms.
Sweet and spicy flavors go well with quinoa, which is neutral
and crunchy.”
Chefs are whipping alternative grains into stuffings,
pilafs, crepes, salads, risottos, stir-fries, fritters, bread
puddings, breading for meats, grits, polenta, soups, crusts,
pastries, and cakes. For inspiration, look no further than New
York’s Aix Brasserie, which features Atlantic salmon with
millet pancake, sautéed fresh corn with young garlic,
scallion, and bacon, and tomato reduction. Robert Weland, chef
at Poste Brasserie in Washington, D.C., who features grain-based
dishes using quinoa, wheat berries, or kamut prepared with seasonal
vegetables, says, “Our whole grains took off at our restaurant.
We are seeing tremendous sales.”
While some cutting-edge chefs find whole grains
a welcome challenge, plenty do not know how to cook with them,
pair them with foods, or flavor them. “I challenge chefs
to learn to do something delicious with whole grains,”
says Harriman, who notes that chefs can rely on cookbooks such
as King Arthur Flour Whole Grain Baking (Countryman, 2006) and
Whole Grains Every Day, Every Way (Clarkson Potter, 2006) by
Lorna Sass, as well as culinary advisors available through the
Whole Grains Council, to help them get cooking with whole grains.
Blending Whole Grains
Into Authentic Ethnic Cuisine
Whether it’s buckwheat soba noodles accompanying Japanese
flavors or bulgur wheat in Middle Eastern tabouli, many whole
grains are part of traditional ethnic cuisines. At Andina, a
Peruvian restaurant in Portland, Ore., the chef showcases Pimiento
Piquillo Relleno—peppers stuffed with cheese, Serrano
ham, and quinoa, a grain that originated in South America. As
diners increasingly seek a more authentic culinary experience
in which traditional ingredients flavor the dishes rather than
their Americanized versions, restaurant operators can further
capitalize on getting back to the roots of cultural cuisine
by using the original grains in ethnic dishes. Whole cornmeal
can be used in traditional Latin dishes, such as tortillas and
tamales, as well as in the Italian dish polenta; brown rice
can be served with a variety of Asian and Indian cuisines; whole
wheat couscous can be featured in North African recipes; and
whole rye flour can lend traditional Scandinavian breads their
unique flavor.
Getting More Whole Grains
on the Menu
Whole grains are definitely on the radar of restaurant operators.
The National Restaurant Association (NRA) reported more whole
grain participation by exhibitors at the 2006 NRA Show. Susan
Reid, professional chef, coauthor of King Arthur Flour Whole
Grain Baking, and editor of the King Arthur Flour newsletter
The Baking Sheet, says restaurants can incorporate whole grains
into their menus quite easily, simply because these menu items
are not only healthy but also tasty. The easiest way is to fill
the bread baskets with rustic, crusty, artisan breads and cracker
breads made with whole grain flours.
While customers say they want to incorporate
whole grains into their diet, they might not be prepared for
the taste and texture of 100% whole grain breads. Some operators
are finding success with blending whole grains into their favorite
dishes and baked goods or using products such as white whole
wheat flour, which lends a lighter color and texture to baked
items. And bakers are moving beyond whole wheat flour; they
are mixing triticale, barley, millet, and spelt flours into
their multigrain breads, searching for new flavor and texture
inspirations to form signature hearty breads for eclectic bread
baskets.
Whole grains can be featured on the menu in
numerous ways in a growing array of food operations—from
kiosks and convenience stores to hospital cafeterias and school
foodservice. According to Reid, whole grains can star as appetizers
with starts such as whole grain pizza, side dishes by creatively
accompanying entrees with options such as whole grain risotto,
in brunch menus with fare such as whole grain pancakes, or on
the dessert tray with treats such as whole wheat pastries.
The Whole Grains Restaurant
Challenge
The Whole Grains Council is promoting a new program called “Just
Ask for Whole Grains.” A grassroots consumer campaign,
the Whole Grains Council encourages consumers to ask for whole
grains everywhere they eat, thus coaxing restaurants to offer
more choices to consumers interested in whole grains. If you’re
a regular at your favorite Chinese restaurant down the street
and you ask for brown rice every week, chances are the restaurant
owner might eventually get the picture and start supplying it.
If restaurants are offering whole grain choices, the Whole Grains
Council will reward them with prizes, the use of a whole grains
menu symbol, and publicity on their Web site.
In addition, the Whole Grains Council is sponsoring
“The Whole Grains Challenge,” an awards program
for restaurants and foodservice operations that regularly offer
whole grain options. Award winners will be featured prominently
in national publicity campaigns and announced in September during
Whole Grains month. (See www.wholegrainscouncil.org for more
information.) Harriman reports that the Whole Grains Council
plans to create a whole grains stamp suitable for restaurant
menus later this year to help customers identify reliable sources
of whole grains on their menus.
A Whole Grain Choice
Even though whole grains are hot, plenty of customers don’t
care to seek them out. Let’s face it: Many people still
consider dining out a splurge, so they may not be interested
in the healthiest choice on the menu. “Guests are coming
in across the board in the ways they want to have their dining
experience accommodated. Some are looking for healthier options,
while others look at the dining experience as indulgent. We
provide a range of choices for our guests,” says Coe.
Harriman believes that even though not all consumers want whole
grains at restaurants, it shouldn’t be difficult for a
restaurant to offer one whole grain choice, even if it is simply
adding a whole grain selection to the bread basket.
“I think that a lot of customers are still
in the dark about whole grains. We have our servers explain
it to them. It is a cool way for people to think outside of
the box and get used to different grains,” Hankins says.
Restaurants may be instrumental in helping people
learn more about the many ways whole grains can be healthy and
delicious.
— Sharon Palmer, RD, is a contributing
editor at Today’s Dietitian and a freelance
food and nutrition writer in southern California.
Restaurants Serving up Whole Grains
Here’s how creative foodservice operators can dish up
healthy, tasty whole grains at hot spots across the country:
In the Bread Basket
Restaurants are filling bread baskets with rustic, artisanal
whole grain breads—from Boston brown bread and whole grain
foccaccia to multigrain breadsticks and crackerbreads.
Hors D’oeuvres of Whole Grains
Creative appetizers featuring whole grains include whole grain
crusts on pizzas and quiche, buckwheat crepes, and whole corn
tortilla wraps.
Whole Grain Side Dish Heaven
Alternative grains make unique, flavorful side dishes—from
wild rice and bulgur pilafs to quinoa custards and buckwheat
soba noodles.
New Age Brunch Alternatives
“What’s for brunch?” becomes an exciting question
when choices include whole wheat scones and biscuits, buckwheat
pancakes or crepes, oatmeal pies, and whole grain beignets.
From the Dessert Tray
Diners can feel a tad less guilty when selecting a whole wheat
Napoleon, a whole grain lemon cake, or a multigrain bread pudding
for dessert.
— Source: King Arthur Flour Whole
Grain Baking by Susan Reid
Restaurants With the
Right Whole Grain Stuff
Here’s a list of selected restaurants putting whole grains
in the limelight:
• Blimpie
• Bruegger’s Bagels
• Cereality
• Fazoli’s
• Great Harvest Bread Co.
• Jersey Mike’s
• McDonald’s
• Noodles & Co.
• Olive Garden
• Panera
• PF Chang’s
• Romano’s Macaroni Grill
• Rubio’s Fresh Mexican Grill
• Ruby Tuesday
• Rumbi Island Grill
• Samurai Sam’s
• Taco Time
• Whole Foods (deli take-out)
— Source: The Whole Grains Council
