May 2025 Issue

Cultural Foodways: Ukrainian Cuisine
By Inga Voloshin, RDN, CDN
Today’s Dietitian
Vol. 27 No. 5 P. 8

Explore the Hearty Flavors Rooted in Land and History

It didn’t occur to me at age 4, as I sat in my grandparent’s tiny Brooklyn apartment kitchen, that the strange bits being tossed about my plate—varenyki smothered with smetana (sour cream)—told the story of a culture deeply permeated with history, land, and endurance.

In 1990, the dissolution of the Soviet Union not only opened the gates for several families like mine to immigrate to the United States and other nations, but also forced newly independent “republics” like Ukraine to put forth a stronger national identity, boasting cultural culinary gems.

Today, the quintessential Ukrainian kitchen is fragrant with the smells of fried potatoes, garlic, and dill. Hearty stews and soups like the classic beet and cabbage soup, borscht, stay on repeat. Condiments like sour cream and mayonnaise accessorize so many dishes, and pickles as well fermented dairy foods stick around to unknowingly support digestion in the background of a robust diet.

Staple Crops and Seasonality
Ranking sixth among the top 10 “black soil” countries worldwide, Ukraine’s fertile land flora has historically cultivated an impressive range of crops. Black soil refers to soils in certain parts of the world, especially Eastern Europe and parts of Eurasia, that are particularly fertile and rich, making for diverse and plentiful agricultural outputs. These regions are sometimes called the “food basket of the world.” Among Ukraine’s considerable outputs, sugar beets, sunflower seeds, barley, millet, wheat, and potatoes tend to be the foundation of most classic Ukrainian dishes and inevitably continue to weave into contemporary culinary creations.1

A common theme among some of today’s most innovative and talented Ukrainian chefs is the desire to retain the core of the culture even in the most modern of contexts. “I think about seasonality and produce, and what my Ukrainian ancestors cooked at particular times of the year depending on what was available. I use this as the starting point for my recipes and dishes,” says Olia Hercules, a Ukrainian chef, author, and activist. In her book, Mamushka, Hercules recounts stories of her post-Soviet childhood in Ukraine while weaving in dishes consumed primarily due to seasonality and availability. Years later, she continues to cook these classics out of nostalgia and as a tribute to her culture.

Historical Context
From the reign of the tsars to Lenin and Stalin’s communist regime, political climate and leadership of the region has always molded the relationship between Ukrainians and their food and, to an equivalent extent, inspired the actual food consumed. Archaeological evidence suggests that the cultivation of crops such as rye, barley, and millet, as well as hunting and fishing, were established practices in Ukraine much earlier.2 From the 14th to the 18th century, warriors known as Cossacks fought for the independence of the Ukrainian state while also dabbling in hunting and agriculture. Through their seminomadic lifestyles, these Cossacks were partly responsible for transporting culinary influences from Asia and Poland.3 During the Imperial Russian Era, chefs commissioned to cook for monarchs from foreign nations like France brought along Western European techniques and arguably inspired some of the most distinguished Ukrainian dishes like Chicken Kyiv, a breaded and fried roulade of chicken stuffed with butter.

The communist era established the concept of stolovayas, or communal kitchens, as well as eating for nourishment or workplace efficiency, as purported by Vladimir Lenin. Though already established as part of the cuisine, energy-dense foods like sour cream and mayonnaise became even more widely used. New influences from North America, such as canned vegetables, processed meat logs (bologna), potatoes, and corn also became more widespread in the Ukrainian and Soviet diet during this time. Joseph Stalin’s collectivization policy, which forced peasants to give up their land and join a government-controlled farming system, as well as the devastation caused by the Ukrainian famine, characterized the remainder of this period as one of scarcity, deficit, and food rationing.4

Nutrition & Health Considerations
Nutritional guidelines promoting meat and dairy consumption, as well as food production trends dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries, have left an indisputable mark on the Ukrainian diet as a whole. While the diet does consist heavily of animal products and proteins, there is still an equal emphasis on plant-based foods and crops such as whole grains, root vegetables, and fresh produce. Economic factors as well as increased health literacy have inspired younger generations in particular to take to more plant-geared eating styles as they also adapt more multicultural palettes.5

One “old” aspect of the Ukrainian diet that has recently emerged as a newer global health trend is its affection toward fermented foods. “A favorite attribute of the Ukrainian diet is the abundance of gut-healthy fermented foods and beverages such as sauerkraut, pickles, pickled tomatoes, pickled mushrooms, kefir, and kvass,” affirms Anna Khesin, RD, CDN, a New Jersey–based dietitian who specializes in gut health. Having been brought up in a partially Ukrainian household, Khesin is more than familiar with the flavors and functional value of some of Ukraine’s popular fermented gems. One such product now readily available in most American supermarkets is kefir, a staple item found in most Ukrainian refrigerators. “Kefir is a fermented dairy product that resembles a more drinkable and tangier yogurt in flavor and mouthfeel. It’s a wonderful source of probiotics and also offers protein and calcium, and is beneficial for digestive and bone health. Delicious on its own or in a smoothie,” Khesin says.

Cultural Food Traditions
A culture’s cuisine is equal parts behavior and food. This is seen in Ukrainian food traditions that have withstood the test of time. Growing up, a family dinner—whether consisting of my immediate six-person family or an extended special occasion dinner with cousins, uncles, or babushka’s neighbors—was equipped with a table full of small plates. These small plates featured pickles, mayo-laden salads, syr (cheese), kovbasa (smoked and/or cured meat), and much more. On the most festive of occasions, smoked fish like sturgeon and even caviar would make an appearance. Everything was served family style, and depending on the length of the table, these zakuski (savory snacks or appetizers) would appear multiple times for easy access.

When it comes to hosting, most Ukrainians know no bounds. Having an impromptu guest over for chai would still entail several plates, only this time filled with sweets and tea treats like verhuny (crunchy, fried twists of sweet dough). While most modern-day Ukrainians may not prepare classic desserts from scratch, they keep the traditions alive by summoning the help of nearby bakeries or Ukrainian markets that typically carry cakes like medavik (honey cake) or the popular Kyiv cake, a decadent layered cake made with meringue, buttercream, and chocolate, as well as individually wrapped chocolate candies whose whimsical coverings rekindle the childlike glimmer even in the most serious adults.

The desire to feed in abundance may be a sentiment of older generations who lived parts of their lives in poverty. This desire coupled with Ukrainian resourcefulness in the kitchen, has carried over into a cuisine and relationship with food that may forever be ingrained in Ukrainians. “Ukraine is not just where I come from,” says Dmitry Rodov, chef and owner of Duet Restaurant in Brooklyn, “It’s a part of everything I create in the kitchen, from the warmth of family gatherings to the artistry of homemade recipes passed down through generations, I carry my heritage in every dish … through food, we keep Ukraine close to our hearts, sharing its warmth, resilience, and hospitality.” Rodov immigrated to the United States from Kharkov, Ukraine, in 1990. He trained at the French Culinary Institute in New York City, and decades later now proudly offers classics like salo and borscht on his lavish restaurant menu.

— Inga Voloshin, RDN, CDN, is a classically trained chef. After graduating from the Institute of Culinary Education, she worked for some of New York City’s most fast-paced fine dining establishments. She then went on to complete her dietetic internship at New York Presbyterian Hospital. Voloshin continues to meld her passion for food and nutrition in her current role as a retail dietitian. Born in Latvia to Ukrainian parents, she is passionate about finding unique and nutritious avenues to pay homage to her culture’s rich culinary offerings.

References
1. Ukraine. Food in Every Country website. http://www.foodbycountry.com/Spain-to-Zimbabwe-CumulativeIndex/Ukraine.html#ixzz5SPzYUgs. Accessed January 11, 2025.
2. Traditional foods. Internet Encyclopedia of Ukraine website. https://www.encyclopediaofukraine.com/display.asp?linkpath=pages%5CT%5CR%5CTraditionalfoods.htm

3. Who were Ukrainian Cossacks? Ukraine website. https://ukraine.ua/faq/who-were-ukrainian-cossacks/. Published August 19, 2022. Accessed January 15, 2025.

4. Von Bremzen A. Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking: A Memoir of Love and Longing. 1st ed. Crown Publishers; 2013.

5. Seheda S. Per capita food consumption trends in Ukraine. https://ageconsearch.umn.edu/record/271974/files/Seheda.pdf. Published 2018. Accessed January 15, 2025.

6. Ukrainian cultural orientation. Defense Language Institute Foreign Language Center website. http://fieldsupport.dliflc.edu/products/ukrainian/uk_co/. Accessed January 20, 2025.

7. Forero O, Smith G. The reproduction of ‘cultural taste’ amongst the Ukrainian diaspora in Bradford, England. Sociol Rev. 2010;58(2):78-96.

Homemade Tvorog
Yield: About 9 servings

Ingredients
½ gallon 2% milk (may also use whole or 1% milk)
2 cups light buttermilk (may also use kefir or yogurt)

Directions
1. Place milk and buttermilk into a large bowl or oven-safe pot, whisking to combine. Cover and leave at room temperature for 14 to 24 hours. *Optional: After this time, you can remove 2 cups of the mixture and reserve; this will act as a starter for your next batch of tvorog. The starter may be stored in a lidded glass jar or glass container in the refrigerator for up to one week.

2. Preheat oven to 250˚F. Transfer mixture to an oven-safe pot, if it is not already in one. Bake 25 to 30 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool. Using a large, slotted spoon, scoop off the thickened cheese portion at the surface and transfer to a cheesecloth-lined strainer set over a large bowl. Cover and refrigerate for at least four hours before consumption. May reserve liquid whey for various culinary uses (pancake or cake batters, smoothies, vinaigrettes).

Nutrient Analysis per serving (1/3 cup)
Calories: 133; Total fat: 4.7 g; Sat fat: 2.7 g; Cholesterol: 19.6 mg; Sodium: 127 mg; Total carbohydrate: 13.3 g; Total sugars: 13.3 g; Added sugars: 0 g; Dietary fiber: 0 g; Protein: 9.3 g

Ukrainian Fermented Foods
Kefir: Tangy fermented milk drink, usually consumed at breakfast or as part of a snack.

Kvass: Fermented grain-based carbonated beverage consumed by adults and children despite low alcohol content (ranging from 1.5% to 2.5%).

Tvorog: Farmer’s cheese made by combining milk with a starter such as kefir or yogurt; consumed on its own with honey or sour cream, or used as a base in traditional recipes like syrniki (cheese pancakes) or nalisniki (cheese-filled crepes).

Pickled Vegetables: Cucumbers, cabbage, and tomatoes are commonly pickled and served with meals.

Pickled Fruits: Watermelon and apples are pickled and served along with other “zakuski” or alongside savory main dishes.

Ukrainian Staple Ingredients
Beets
Cabbage
Potatoes
Radish
Dill
Parsley
Onions, garlic, scallions
Bread (rye, wheat, multiseed)
Mayonnaise
Unrefined sunflower seed oil
Smetana (sour cream)
Chicken, pork, beef
Fish (herring, sturgeon)
Buckwheat groats
Barley
Dairy (milk, cheese, fermented dairy)