May 2007
Ancient and Alternative Grains
By Carol Ann Brannon, MS, RD, LD
Today’s Dietitian
Vol. 9 No. 5 P. 10

CDR Learning Codes: 2000, 2010, 4110, 5110, 8090; CDR Level 1

As food fads go, the low-carbohydrate phenomenon was remarkably short-lived. Today, consumers appear to have lost interest in low-carb foods and are concentrating on whole grains, thanks in part to the 2005 USDA Dietary Guidelines and MyPyramid, with their emphasis on at least three daily servings of whole grains. Consumers are getting the message that it is better to be “carbohydrate selective” than “carbo-phobic.” Whole grain food sales have increased dramatically in recent years—by more than 18% from 2004 to 2005 compared with less than 1% from 2000 to 2004.1-5

Wheat, corn, rice, and oats represent the largest market share of whole grain food sales. However, various ancient and alternative grains are gaining the attention of health-conscious consumers and the food industry.1,2 Dietitians need to keep up with trends to effectively counsel clients.

While sophisticated and adventurous consumers may choose esoteric whole grains for fashion or novelty, making culinary forays into the intriguing tastes and textures of old world grains, many seek health benefits as well because many ancient and alternative grains are gluten-free (GF).

Gluten is the insoluble protein component of wheat and other grains. Intolerance to these proteins produces various diagnoses, especially celiac disease, an immune-mediated disease of malabsorption caused by inflammation that damages the microvilli and villi of the small intestine. Celiac disease is estimated to affect one in 133 Americans (approximately 3 million people); the average age at diagnosis is 40 to 50. It is believed that many with the condition are undiagnosed. The total market for GF foods may be as high as 9 to 10 million people.

Historically, rice, corn, and potato were substitutes for gluten-containing grains. Today, a number of other nutrient-dense grains, seeds, legumes, and nut flours offer increased variety, improved palatability, and higher nutritional quality. These include amaranth, buckwheat, flax, Indian rice grass, millet, teff, quinoa, and sorghum.

Interest in exotic grains is also bolstered by the increasing popularity of organic and ethnic foods. Thus, fashion and nutrition science are combined in the rediscovery and growing popularity of ancient and alternative grains.1-5

Amaranth, kamut, millet, quinoa, and spelt (either as ingredients or as bulk or packaged grains) have become common on grocery store shelves, particularly in upscale markets such as Whole Foods. These ancient whole grains are often located in large bins near the front of the supermarket, making them hard to miss.

However, many consumers pass these bins because they have little idea of how to prepare and incorporate these grains into their diet. The more timid and less adventurous cook may opt to buy and prepare a boxed mix containing an ancient or alternative grain that provides seasonings and cooking directions. While that is probably better than buying no whole grains at all, it is likely a more expensive and less satisfying route for many consumers.

Thus, given the growing popularity of ancient and alternative grains, dietitians should be able to answer these frequently asked questions: What exactly is it? How do I prepare it? What does it taste like? Why should I eat it? Does it have gluten? What are the health benefits?

An increasing number of independent and large-chain supermarkets are employing dietitians to help provide nutrition education to their customers because, as we know, the media, government, and food manufacturers can convey confusing and misleading information.2,3 This article will provide you with answers to commonly asked questions about ancient and alternative grains, particularly those emerging on grocery store shelves—amaranth, millet, quinoa, and spelt.

Whole Grains 101
Whole grains, often referred to as cereals, are members of the grass (Gramineae) family of plants and produce a dry, edible, one-seeded fruit, or caryopsis, which is commonly referred to as a kernel, grain, or berry. There are eight grains from cereal grass: wheat, corn, rice, oats, rye, barley, millet, and sorghum. Spelt and kamut, which are gaining popularity today, are types of wheat considered to be ancient wheats.4

Amaranth, quinoa, flaxseed, and buckwheat are technically not grains because they come from broad leaf plants, not grasses. They are often referred to as pseudograins or false grains.4

Whole grains are composed of three layers: the germ, endosperm, and bran. The germ, or embryo, is the small innermost part that contains vitamins E and K, essential oils, minerals, and protein. The endosperm is the center starchy part, representing roughly 80% of the kernel. The bran layer is the outer covering that consists of fiber, protein, B-complex vitamins, and minerals. Although all grains contain these three layers, the composition and nutrient value vary.6 Grains can be divided into different categories or groups (see Table 1).

Why Ancient and Alternative Grains?
A simple reason for the resurgence of ancient and alternative grains is “because we can.” Humans seek variety in their diets. Modern transportation and communications have made foreign foods familiar and available. But there are other, more substantive reasons, including the following:

• Taste: Ancient grains have a distinctive taste and are more flavorful than modern whole grains. Unlike modern grains, ancient grains have survived intact for centuries and remained virtually untouched by modern plant science. To increase crop yields, decrease vulnerability to disease and pests, improve tolerance for storage and handling, and accommodate processing, modern grains have been carefully bred or hybridized and may even be genetically engineered. As a result, modern grains may be less flavorful, though taste is subjective.

• Nutrition: Grains are unique because they contain all the major nutrient groups: carbohydrates, proteins, fats, vitamins, and minerals. Ancient grains are often a richer source of nutrients than modern grains because a lack of breeding has left their nutrition profile intact. For example, quinoa has been called the “super grain” because researchers have found that it can contain up to 50% more protein than common grains and higher levels of fat, calcium, phosphorus, iron, and B vitamins.10-12

• Health Benefits: People have known about the benefits of whole grains for centuries. Hippocrates said in 400 BC, to the human body, it makes a great difference whether the bread is made of fine flour or coarse, whether of wheat, with the bran, or without the bran.

Whole grains are considered functional foods because of the many health benefits they offer, including protection from cardiovascular disease, diabetes, and certain cancers.8-10 Whole grains are unique in that they are naturally low in fat, cholesterol-free, 10% to 15% protein, and a good source of dietary fiber, resistant starch, oligosaccharides, trace minerals, vitamins, antioxidants, numerous phytochemicals, and phytoestrogens.8-10

Ancient and alternative grains offer unique health benefits and are ideal for people with food allergies or intolerances. Ancient grains are also a welcome alternative for people with celiac disease and/or who are allergic to wheat and other gluten-containing grains. Celiac disease involves an inability to break down gluten. The presence of gluten in the digestive tract of a person with celiac disease triggers devastating symptoms—ranging from severe cramping to chronic fatigue and even organ disorders.13 In addition, many children with autism spectrum disorder (ASD) cannot tolerate gluten and rely on alternative grains as their dietary staples. The number of children with ASD is now estimated at one in 150. A growing number of people are eliminating wheat from their diet in hopes of reducing their frequent headaches, lethargy, and diarrhea, which they attribute to wheat sensitivity or allergy.1,11,12

Glossary of Popular Ancient Grains
• Amaranth is one of the earliest known food plants. Evidence of its use 8,000 years ago has been found. It is indigenous to the western hemisphere and was cultivated by the Aztecs, who considered it a “super food” with a reputation for providing energy and improving the athletic performance of runners and warriors. Amaranth grain was so valued that bushels of it were presented to the Aztec leader, Montezuma, after its harvest each year. Thus, amaranth was an integral part of Aztec culture and religious ceremonies. Over time, this indigenous grain was replaced by European grain crops.14,15

Amaranth is closely related to pigweed, spinach, beets, and other plants in the Chenopodiaceae plant family, more commonly known as the goosefoot plant family. Amaranth is sometimes called a “pseudograin,” herb, or even a vegetable (its young leaves can be cooked and eaten). Amaranth seeds are very small and have a yellowish-brown color. It tastes faintly like corn and, when cooked, is more soupy than fluffy. It is recommended to flavor it with onions or garlic and/or mix it with other grains. Amaranth can be “popped” in a dry frying pan or griddle, making a tasty and filling snack. As an ingredient, amaranth can be used in various ways.14,15

Approximately 20 years ago, amaranth became known as the “ancient crop with a future” when the National Academy of Sciences recommended it as one of the top 20 foods to be reintroduced into the American diet due to its phenomenal nutritional profile. It is an excellent source of high-quality protein, fiber, calcium, magnesium, iron, copper, and phytosterols. Amaranth is higher in protein and fiber and has twice as much iron as wheat. It contains a balance of amino acids and is naturally high in the amino acids lysine, methionine, and cysteine, which are typically found only in small amounts in other grains.16

The health benefits of fiber are well-established. Researchers are learning more about the health benefits of the phytochemical group phytosterols. Current research has determined that phytosterols compete with cholesterol for uptake by the intestines, thereby blocking cholesterol absorption and facilitating cholesterol excretion. In addition, phytosterols appear to aid in maintaining hormone balance and enhancing immune function.8-10,16

The phenomenal nutrition profile and absence of gluten make amaranth an ideal grain for those adhering to a GF diet, as well as those with heart disease and diabetes. Nu-World Amaranth, one of the country’s main buyers of amaranth, reported a 300% increase in sales in the past three years.1

• Farro, also known by its Latin name Triticum dicoccum, is often confused for spelt because their appearance is so similar. Farro and spelt are two distinctly different grains. Farro, which is less common than spelt and may be harder to find, has a nutty flavor, similar to oats and barley. Before cooking, farro must be soaked, whereas spelt can be boiled straight off. Cooked farro has a firm, chewy texture; as spelt softens, it becomes mushy. Spelt can be used in place of farro, but the cooking time needs to be adjusted.14

Farro is a good source of fiber, magnesium, B vitamins, and vitamins A, C, and E. Ground farro can be used to make pasta and baked goods, such as muffins and breads.14

• Kamut is an ancient Egyptian wheat grain worth mentioning even though it is not available for purchase by itself but can be found in cereals, crackers, and pasta. It has a rich, buttery flavor even though it is low in fat. It is considered a high protein wheat. Like other ancient grains, kamut appears to be headed for superstardom because of its unique nutritional qualities and versatility. Some studies are investigating the possible role of kamut in hypoallergenic diets.13,14

• Millet, a staple grain in Asia and Africa, is believed to be one of the first grains cultivated by man. Recorded evidence of its existence dates back to 5,500 BC in China, but it could have been cultivated hundreds or thousands of years before in Africa. Today, it grows wild throughout Africa. Worldwide there are more than 6,000 varieties of millet.14

Millet has an excellent nutrient profile, including high amounts of protein (15%), B vitamins, methionine, lecithin, vitamin E, calcium, iron, and phosphorous. Compared with wheat, millet is higher in calories due to its higher oil content, which is 50% polyunsaturated. Millet is low on the glycemic index; thus, it promotes a slow, steady rise in blood glucose levels. Millet is a GF grain with an alkaline pH that makes it easy to digest.14

Millet kernels are tiny, round, and yellow. The texture of prepared millet is similar to wild rice. It has a mild flavor and is versatile—it can be used to make flatbreads or as an ingredient in rice pilaf or stuffing. In India, millet flour is used to make roti—flat, thin cakes that are a basic part of meals. In Africa and Eastern Europe, millet is used in porridge.14

• Quinoa was referred to as the “mother of all grains” by the Incas of the Andean region of South America. Centuries ago, quinoa was a sacred crop and dietary staple most likely eaten with potatoes and flavored with herbs.14

Quinoa is the seed of the Chenopodium plant, which is better known as the goosefoot plant because its leaves resemble a goose’s webbed foot. There are more than 120 species of the goosefoot plant, ranging in color from ivory to pink, brown, red, and almost black. However, only three main varieties are cultivated today: white or sweet quinoa, red quinoa, and black quinoa. The seeds are similar in size to millet but have a different shape—flat with a pointed oval shape resembling a cross between a sesame seed and a millet seed.14

Quinoa is technically a fruit, not a grain. Nonetheless, this ancient seed is used as a grain because of its cooking characteristics. Close relatives of quinoa are beets, spinach, and Swiss chard. The leaves of the goosefoot plant are also edible and make a pleasant vegetable, like spinach. A quinoa leaf salad is generally more nutritious that most green salads.14,17

The quinoa seed is GF and high in protein, calcium, and iron, and it is a relatively good source of vitamin E and several B vitamins. It contains a nearly perfect balance of all eight essential amino acids, making quinoa a complete protein food. Quinoa is exceptionally high in the amino acids lysine, cystine, and methionine. Again, these amino acids are typically low in other grains and legumes. Quinoa is 12% to 18% protein. Four ounces per day, or approximately 1/2 cup, is sufficient to meet a child’s daily protein needs. Compared with other grains, quinoa is relatively high in fat (6% to 7%) and a valuable source of starch and fiber. Quinoa also contains albumen, a protein found in egg whites, blood serum, and many plant and animal tissues.14,17

Before cooking, the seeds must be rinsed to remove the bitter resinlike coating, which is the phytochemical saponin. Although quinoa is rinsed before it is packaged and sold, it is advisable to place the seed in a strainer and rinse again at home before use to remove any remaining residue. The saponins are responsible for the production of soaplike “suds” when the seeds are swished in water. An interesting side note: In South America, the removed saponins are used as detergent for washing clothes and an antiseptic to promote healing of skin injuries.14,17

Quinoa has delightful and unique characteristics that give it an appearance and texture all its own. Upon cooking, the outer germ around each grain twists outward, forming a little white, spiral tail attached to the kernel. The texture of the grain itself is soft and delicate, and the consistency is fluffy while the “tail” is crunchy, resulting in an intriguing texture combination and pleasant “crunch” factor. The taste is a mild, delicate, slightly nutty flavor that borders on bland. Today, quinoa is driving the growth of ancient and alternative grain sales.14,17

Quinoa is an easy-to-prepare and excellent alternative to white rice or couscous, or it can serve as a high-protein breakfast food mixed with honey, almonds, or berries. This grain is also sold as a dry product, much like corn flakes. Quinoa flour can be used in wheat-based and GF baking. For the latter, it can be combined with sorghum flour, tapioca, and potato starch to create a nutritious GF baking mix. A suggested mix is three parts quinoa flour, three parts sorghum flour, two parts potato starch, and one part tapioca starch.17

• Spelt is a wheatlike plant first cultivated some 9,000 years ago. This Middle Eastern cereal grass is mentioned when the Old Testament states in Ezekiel 4:9 to also take wheat, barley, beans, lentils, millet, and spelt, and put them into one vessel and make bread of them.14

Spelt was brought to eastern Ohio by Swiss immigrants. Upon arrival in the United States, spelt was cultivated primarily for animal feed and almost completely abandoned as a grain source for humans because it has a smaller yield, longer growing seasons, and is less resistant to disease than other varieties of wheat crops. However, in the past 25 years, spelt has gained the recognition of the health food market and health professionals as a potential wheat substitute.14

Spelt seeds resemble wheat berries, except they are a little longer and more pointed. Spelt is higher in protein than wheat, though not as high in protein as quinoa or amaranth, and is rich in complex carbohydrates, fiber, minerals, and vitamins B1 and B2. Spelt is used as an ingredient in cookies, quick breads, and muffins or used in soups and stews in the same way barley is used.14

Many people who are allergic to wheat can tolerate spelt. However, there is concern that spelt is too similar to wheat for it to be an effective replacement grain. People with celiac disease should not eat spelt.14

Purchasing and Preparing
It is important to look for and purchase only undamaged kernels because the outer bran layer offers protection of the kernel’s flavor and nutrients from destruction due to air and light. Whole grains should be stored in airtight containers in a cool, dry place out of direct light. The chart below outlines cooking guidelines for a variety of grains, including ancient grains.

Guidelines for Cooking Grains and Cereals

Procedure:

1. Rinse whole grains thoroughly.

2. Heat a large, heavy skillet and toast the grain. Stir until the water has evaporated and the grains begin to pop. (Note: This step is optional.)

3. In a heavy pot, bring water or clear broth to a boil (see Table 2 for correct amount of water). Add grains.

4. Bring to a boil again, then lower heat to simmer (see Table 2 for cooking times), cover, and cook until all liquid is absorbed.
5. Add salt after cooking, if desired.

Into the Future With Ancient Grains
As dietitians, we know that the American palate is still adjusting to whole wheat. It will likely take some time for these unusual old world grains to gain broad acceptance. However, just as many Americans overcame their fear of sushi, I am confident that once people try these slightly nutty-tasting ancient grains, they will continue to eat them. There is little demand for food products made entirely of amaranth and/or quinoa, but the use of these grains as ingredients will likely increase as the consumer demand for multigrain food products continues to climb. Consumers are increasingly health conscious, especially the Baby Boomer generation.2,3

The ancient grains discussed in this article have some incredible nutritional profiles and properties. People are beginning to understand that there are proven health benefits to eating a diversity of grains. Of course, knowledge about the health benefits of whole grains is of little value without integrating whole grains into one’s diet. Consumers must also come to understand that a whole grain product must contain at least one half serving of whole grains to receive the health benefits of the whole grain.2,3 Dietitians can play a valuable role in education and helping people incorporate whole grains into their diets.

— Carol Ann Brannon, MS, RD, LD, is a consulting dietitian at Fowler YMCA and in private practice in Georgia.

References

1. Fernau K. Whole grains grow popular: Healthier eating need not taste bad. The Arizona Republic. March 1, 2006. Available here.

2. Moran M. Powering up whole grain sales. The Gourmet Retailer. November 1, 2006. Available here.

3. Swann L. Whole truths from a grainy trend: Consumers, likely confused by the notion of whole grains, are benefitting from new FDA guideline on the subject. Prepared Foods. May 2006.

4. Grains of truth about grains other than wheat. Wheat Foods Council. Revised 2005. Available here. Accessed March 9, 2007.

5. Celiac Sprue Association. Diagnosis of celiac disease. Available here. Accessed March 31, 2007.

6. Whole grains: High in nutrition and fiber, yet low in fat. Mayo Clinic.com. July 25, 2005. Available here.

7. Whole Grains Fact Sheet. International Food Information Council. January 2007. Available here.

8. Slavin J. Whole grains and human health. Nutr Research Rev. 2004;17:99-110.

9. Anderson JW. Whole grains and coronary heart disease: The whole kernel of truth. Am J Clin Nutr. 2004;80(6):1459-1460.

10. Slavin J. Why whole grains are protective: Biological mechanisms. Proc Nutr Soc. 2003;62(1):129-134.

11. Korn D. Wheat-Free, Worry-Free: The Art of Happy, Healthy Gluten-Free Living. Carlsbad, Calif.: Hay House; 2002.

12. Whiteman-Jones M. Modern market rediscovers ancient grains. Available here.

13. McCandless J. Children With Starving Brains: A Medical Treatment Guide for Autism Spectrum Disorder. Putney, Vt.: Bramble Books; 2003.

14. Why use fresh milled, ancient grains in our Norton’s Wellbread? Available here. Accessed February 9, 2007.

15. Whole Grains. Whole Foods Market. Available here. Accessed March 9, 2007.

16. Nestel P, Cehun M, Pomeroy S, et al. Cholesterol-lowering effects of plant sterol esters and non-esterified stanols in margarine, butter and low-fat foods. Eur J Clin Nutr. 2001;55(12):1084-1090.

17. Railey K. Whole grains: Quinoa from the Andes. Chet Day’s Health & Beyond. Available here.

18. Brannon C. Functional Foods, Part 1. Nutrition Dimension, Inc. January 2005. Available here.

Examination

1. Ancient and alternative grains:
a. are dietary options for the growing number of people with food allergies or sensitivities.
b. have a nutty flavor.
c. have been around for thousands of years.
d. are generally appropriate for people with celiac disease.
e. all of the above

2. The pseudograins include all of the following except:
a. amaranth.
b. buckwheat.
c. millet.
d. flaxseed.
e. quinoa.

3. __________ is an 8,000-year-old indigenous grain, grown by the Aztecs, that had a reputation for providing energy and improving athletic performance.
a. Spelt
b. Amaranth
c. Millet
d. Kamut
e. Farro

4. __________ is often called the “super grain” because of its high protein content.
a. Spelt
b. Kamut
c. Quinoa
d. Amaranth
e. Millet

5. ___________ is a phytochemical responsible for the formation of “suds” when quinoa kernels are rinsed before cooking.
a. Phytosterols
b. Isoflavones
c. Saponins
d. Lutein
e. Lycopene

6. ____________ has a unique texture. The grain itself is soft and delicate, and the consistency is fluffy while the “tail” is crunchy.
a. Spelt
b. Kamut
c. Quinoa
d. Amaranth
e. Millet

7. ________, with its buttery flavor, is a popular ingredient in a variety of foods but is currently not available for purchase by itself.
a. Spelt
b. Kamut
c. Quinoa
d. Amaranth
e. Millet

8. __________ leaves, which resemble the webbed foot of a goose, can be used in salads, much like spinach.
a. Spelt
b. Kamut
c. Quinoa
d. Amaranth
e. Millet

9. Grains or kernels should be:
a. washed before cooking.
b. stored in an airtight container.
c. stored in a cool, dry place.
d. free of damage.
e. all of the above

10. __________ is the phytochemical in amaranth that plays a role in lowering cholesterol levels.
a. Phytosterols
b. Isoflavones
c. Saponins
d. Lutein
e. Lycopene