Inside
Beauty — Cosmeceuticals Come of Age
By Lauren Swann, MS, RD, LDN
Today’s Dietitian
Vol. 7 No. 9 P. 40
Consumer interest in health and nutrition meets
the personal care products industry and cosmeceuticals are born.
From avocado to honey, omega 3s to aloe, the trendy
momentum of the cosmeceutical movement is a clear sign that consumers
seek to eat well for naturally glowing skin, strong, shiny hair,
and inner holistic radiance.
Currently at an all-time high, consumer interest
in personal care and well-being led to the first one-day “Inside
Beauty” Conference and Exhibition about the cosmetics and
personal care industries meeting a demand for products that enhance
from within. The 13th annual Health & Beauty America (HBA) conference
in New York City last September featured the latest scientific research
and product innovation connecting health and beauty; described as
“perhaps the most interesting development in the cosmetics
industry this year,” its successful debut prompted expansion
to a three-day 2005 event.
Cosmeceuticals, though not an FDA-recognized term,
refers to cosmetics with health, medicinal, therapeutic, or disease-fighting
properties touted to prevent, strengthen, rejuvenate, improve, or
repair. Reportedly first coined in the late 1970s at a Society of
Cosmetic Chemists meeting by dermatologist Albert Kligman, MD, PhD,
Egyptians are credited with the origination of healing cosmetics.
“Historically people used botanicals—honey masks, olive
oil hair conditioning, and oatmeal baths to soothe the skin,”
says Ellie Krieger, MS, RD, New York City coauthor of Small Changes,
Big Results: A 12-Week Action Plan to a Better Life (reviewed in
this issue’s Bookshelf) and former Wilhemina model.
Once a category where the biggest health concern
was allergies, more recent interest has grown from the use of retinol
and alpha-hydroxy acid for better-looking sun-damaged or wrinkled
skin. Since then, this $12.4 billion category of consumer skin care,
hair care, and makeup products that healthfully beautify has exploded
to include dermaceuticals, or skinceuticals, and performance, functional,
bioactive, or therapeutic cosmetics, creating a mainstream category
that taps the desire for self-care—something already well
underway in Europe and Japan.
Beautify Me
Inside Beauty 2004 Conference speaker Loren Israelsen, president
of the Utah-based LDI Group, Inc., described it as “an intense
interest in self-care with an unusually high awareness of how food,
medicine, and the environment affect health and appearance.”
“Boomers are getting older and are women who
have the money to pamper themselves,” says Nicole Trusko,
a Philadelphia-area licensed esthetician with a dietetics degree.
“Spas rejuvenate with nutrition, rest, and touch to help heal
fatigued nerves.”
“It’s part of the whole sense of mind,
body, and spirit, inner-connectedness, environment and body, and
that healing power,” says Krieger. She describes the growing
cosmeceutical marketplace as “a relatively inexpensive way
of pampering.” Kathryn Fink, RD, LD, a licensed cosmetologist
in Dallas, adds, “Massages and manicures are ways to nurture
your inner self.”
Besides middle-age women, the “metrosexual”
influence has resulted in a growing men’s market. Regardless
of gender, all generations are indulging from older adults to Generation
X and Y millenials. Datamonitor reports that 33% of all consumers
are at least quite actively engaged in maintaining external appearance.
Trusko says consumers tend to seek out, trust, and
follow skin care advice more than weight management counseling because
a skin problem can be corrected with quicker visible results.
Popular desire for a youthful look is propelling
the fastest growing antiaging and sun care categories. This year’s
conference predicts that longevity with wellness from health will
be the next big idea for beauty. Keynote speaker Cheryl Forberg,
RD, author of Stop the Clock! Cooking: Defy Aging – Eat the
Foods You Love, will address how certain foods can minimize aging.
“Antiaging is now medically defined,” she says. “You
can claim to slow down or minimize—but not reverse—aging.”
From the Inside Out — Top
Nutrients
Trusko stresses water over other fluids and notes that for every
one cup of coffee, two glasses of water are needed to replace fluids
lost because of caffeine. Commenting on another popular beverage
choice, she has found that “even diet sodas can make people
thirstier.” After water, the most heavily recommended beauty
foods tend to be those rich in antioxidant vitamins C and E, beta-carotene,
and essential fatty acids. To demonstrate the importance of free
radical neutralizers, Forberg dips one-half of an apple in vitamin
C-rich lemon juice and leaves the other half plain for a few hours
or days to show how continuously bathing cells in antioxidants does
the same for the human body. Maye Musk, MS, RD, author of Feel Fantastic,
Manhattan-based consulting nutritionist, and international Ford
agency model, simply encourages lots of fruits and vegetables. Forberg
feels strongly that omega-3 fatty acids are tops among the most
important nutrients vital to healthy skin. For omega 3s, however,
“it might be hard to get enough, and the right ratio or balance
is important.” So, in addition to salmon or flax, supplements
are an option.
Companies looking to capitalize on the trend have
introduced “beauty-licious” dermatologist-formulated
products such as Ecco Bella “Instant Bliss” chocolate
and drinks—antioxidant and mineral-rich cocoa infused with
omega 3-containing cranberry seed oil, blueberry extract, lutein,
and lycopene. Naturopathic dermatologist Nicholas Perricone in Meriden,
Conn., offers “The Perricone Prescription” Three-Day
Nutritional Face-lift, “Face-lift in Your Fridge” practices,
and a retail antioxidant skin care line. Other commercial beauty
ingestibles include Olay Vitamins, Avon VitAdvance, and Murad Skincare
supplements.
“Controlling inflammation from the inside
out—not just reacting to a skin problem—is the next
big beauty secret,” says Israelsen. Barry Sears, PhD, president
and founder, Zone Labs, Inc., presented “Combating Inflammation
Is the Key to Looking Great and Staying Healthy,” claiming
that “inflammation links to all chronic disease, skin degeneration,
and the aging process. To stop inflammation, balance protein and
carbohydrate ratio at each meal.” Sears also encourages high-dose
fish oil for “anti-inflammatory eicosanoids that promote the
skin.” Forberg adds that proteins are anti-inflammatory and
also important for keeping skin healthy. Drawing from her work with
clients recovering from eating disorders, Fink concurs on how protein
helps appearance.
From the Outside In — Nourishing
the Skin
Environmentally, Musk points to two key habits essential to skin
care and preservation: “Stop the sun and if you’re going
to smoke you might as well forget it.”
Nutrients are also being applied topically for their
beauty effects. Anthony Almeda, BSc, MSc, president of California-based
IMAGINutrition, presented that tomato paste rubbed on the skin can
result in the same lycopene absorption as when it is eaten. “Lycopene
protects against UV damage,” says Forberg, “and sun
exposure likely depletes blood levels,” relating the history
of Madame Ella Baché’s Crème Tomate skin cream:
“In the 1930s, peasant women in Hungary applied tomato slices
to their cheeks to reduce irritations from working in the fields
and catalyzed a revolution in cosmetics based on natural fruit acids
to refine the texture of skin”—from Stop the Clock Cooking!
However, the nutrient potency of labile antioxidant enriched cosmetics
can become compromised once the package is opened and the product
is exposed to air.
Honey is another food that has been used to beautify
since the times of Cleopatra because of its moisture-loving, anti-irritant
properties and antibacterial, anti-inflammatory wound healing action
that hastens tissue regrowth with less scarring. Phytochemically,
honey contains polyphenol antioxidants.
“What you put on your skin and body is absorbed,”
says Krieger. “More people are using natural deodorants because
the skin can absorb things you don’t want.” She urges
people to consult with their dermatologist because all products
may not work for all people and could even be troublesome for sensitive
skin. “Pay attention to safety and use advisories,”
she cautions. Indeed, Washington University (St. Louis) researchers
recently found that Vitamin K can lighten dark undereye circles
with a qualifier that side effects are unknown.
Cosmeceuticals cover the conceptual aspects of whole-body
wellness, too, with products such as food or herbal aromatherapy
scented shampoos. There’s even cosmeceutical clothing—the
Miss Sixty jeans line is made from Skintex, which contains chitosan
and retinol. The manufacturer claims the compounds take anticellulite
action when directly released to the skin whenever there is fabric
friction during normal wear.
Product Performance
Forberg frequently gets questions about product effectiveness. Yet
while the FDA defines the differences between a cosmetic, a drug,
and a dietary supplement, “cosmeceuticals” is not an
officially recognized term. Government agencies consider the actual
nature, wording, and implication of labeling and advertising claims
to determine which product category is applicable and ultimately
which associated claims are permissible. The Federal Food, Drug
& Cosmetic Act defines cosmetics as “a product, except
soap, intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying,
promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance. A cosmetic
is also a drug when it is intended to cleanse, beautify, or promote
attractiveness as well as treat or prevent disease or otherwise
affect the structure or any function of the human body.” Cosmetic
claims can relate to cleansing, beautifying, promotion, attractiveness,
or altering appearance.
Products that are cosmetics but are also intended
to treat or prevent disease, or affect the structure or functions
of the human body, are considered drugs as well and must comply
with both the drug and cosmetic provisions of the law. Anticaries
toothpastes (eg, fluoride toothpastes), hormone creams, suntanning
preparations intended to protect against sunburn, antiperspirants
that are also deodorants, and antidandruff shampoos are all examples
of products that are drugs as well as cosmetics. For topical applications,
there is an arguably fine line between what is only “altering
the appearance” or actually having an effect on “bodily
structure and function.”
During their 2004 Inside Beauty presentation, speakers
from the law firm of Sidley Austin Brown & Wood advised that
advertising substantiation needs to include competent and reliable
scientific evidence backed by tests conducted and evaluated using
industry standards recognized by experts as accurate and reliable.
A recent USDA announcement has shaken up some manufacturers—personal
care and cosmetic products cannot bear the Organic Certified seal
because the USDA governs agricultural products. “Organic definitely
influences,” says Musk. “Some think it’s closer
to nature and environmentally friendly.”
Beauty and the Dietitian
Americans are predicted to spend $40 billion on nutritional beauty
by the year 2008, making it ripe with opportunities for dietitians.
Forberg was interested in the healing properties of food and after
seeing more interest, wrote her book to appeal to the natural approach
popular on the West coast, though she discovered that botox and
surgery were strong competitors.
Trusko, who worked briefly as a dietetic technician in long-term
care, still enjoys dietetics and has found that her nutrition background
is a plus for cosmetic company interviews, adding credibility for
her individual skin care work as well. “Dermatologists and
plastic surgeons are now hiring estheticians,” she notes,
suggesting that dietitians who want to make the most of this area
try packaging nutrition for beauty counseling services with yoga
or Pilates providers because such clients are already willing to
work. Dietitians are approaching places like Whole Foods Markets
because such locations sell skin care products and have motivated
customers.
Musk notices that while models and performers often
take many supplements, they often tend to go for the very latest
news or get information from pseudo-nutritionists, health food stores,
and each other.
Generally, dietitians who’ve worked on both
sides of the nutrition and beauty equation note that weight loss
is a major driver for individual counseling, within which skin care
and eating for beauty inquiries and solutions get included. Krieger
sees this as an opportunity. “Dietitians can use it as a motivational
tool, that dietary recommendations help you look better and keep
you more beautiful.” Krieger has worked as a nutritionist
with models and tells them they can be thin but their hair, skin,
and eyes won’t look good unless they eat healthy. She’s
found that celebrity entertainers are often highly motivated to
follow advice because they want the results, “sometimes leading
them to seek the extreme.”
Professional modeling experience is a healthy complement
for dietitians involved in appearance-related work. Media projects
are currently a main focus for Krieger and Musk has noticed that
it’s a plus for getting public speaking gigs.
Fink was inspired to become a dietitian after hearing
beauticians talk about nutritional approaches and is seeing more
dietitians team up with salons. “Customers like that I have
that background. Changes that lead to weight loss often prompt people
to look at other aspects of their appearance and nutrition adds
credibility to beauty advice.”
The 2005 Inside Beauty conference will be held September
27 to 29 as part of the 13th annual HBA at the Jacob K. Javits Convention
Center, New York City. Visit www.inside-beauty.com for more information.
— Lauren Swann, MS, RD, LDN, runs Concept
Nutrition, Inc., a Philadelphia-area consulting business specializing
in food and dietary supplement labeling and regulatory issues, marketing
communications, freelance writing, and cultural and ethnic foodways.
Web-Based Resources
For cosmeceutical presentations from the 2005 European In-Cosmetics
conference:
www.in-cosmetics.com/files/incos05_Phytopharm.pdf
www.in-cosmetics.com/files/incosmetics05_Laboratoire_Oenobiol.pdf
The Dole Nutrition Institute Web site features a
Beauty Foods & Recipes section and a downloadable “Natural
Beauty” brochure.
www.dolenutrition.com/spa_foods.aspx
www.dolenutrition.com/pdfs/DNIBrochures/06unbrandednaturalbeautyFINAL.pdf
Top Dietary Ingredients in the Health &
Beauty World:
Vitamins & Minerals
A, C, E, B-Complex
Selenium
Chromium picolinate
Fatty Acids
Omega-3
Conjugated linoleic acid
Antioxidant Phytochemicals
Lycopene
Alpha lipoic acid
Glutathione
Coenzyme Q10
Hormones
Dehydroepiandrosterone
Herbal/Botanical Extracts and Derivatives
Licorice root
Seaweed
Horse chestnut
Milk thistle
Soy
Olive Fruit
Ginseng
Psyllium
Carnitine
Prebiotics and probiotics
Ginkgo biloba
Gotu kola
Witch hazel
— Source: Loren Israelsen, LDI Group, 2004
Health & Beauty America Inside Beauty Conference
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