If
You Make It, Will They Come?
Are Consumers Buying Fast Food’s Healthier Options?
By Stacey Freis, MS, RD, CNSD, CDN
Today’s Dietitian
Vol. 7 No. 8 P. 47
Fast food providers will never lose the burgers
and fries, but they are making changes. If consumers don’t
buy, how long can we expect healthier items to stay on the menu?
Fast food reflects many Americans’ lifestyle—it
is food that is quick and easy for people on the run. Whether it’s
Wendy’s, McDonald’s, Pizza Hut, or Burger King, fast
food’s influence on the American diet cannot be denied.
Fast food menus are looking different lately, offering
options to their traditional high-fat, high-calorie fare. Providing
the public with choices is commendable, but some say it is a partial
solution because personal responsibility for healthy eating is the
larger issue. You can lead consumers to healthy choices, but you
can’t make them eat.
I took a look at several fast food providers and
talked with RDs affiliated with them and the food industry to find
the answers. Are fast food providers interested in helping people
lead more healthy lifestyles?
The answer is yes and no. On one hand, we have all
seen the advertisements for the healthier salads and low-fat dressings,
but they are often pricier than the reason people have flocked to
fast food places in the past—hamburgers, fries, and chicken
nuggets. While low-fat yogurts with granola and fruit are now available,
the other side of the menu continues to grow with bigger sandwiches
and more calories.
Some fast food providers have partnered with health
organizations to promote exercise to our sedentary population. Trans
fat and carbohydrates seem to be on everyone’s mind, but hamburgers
and fried chicken are still the biggest sellers. Each fast food
chain has its own theories and tactics for trying to please the
American public, providing healthier food choices while still keeping
profit margins high.
McDonald’s
In 2001, Fast Food Nation exposed the dark side of the fast food
industry. McDonald’s was at the heart of the book’s
attack on the industry, which included an accusation that the fast
food giant was responsible for the obesity epidemic. “McDonald’s
is committed to playing an active role in changing the obesity debate
from pointing fingers of blame to a healthy discussion of the broader
issue and how we can address it,” according to Cathy Kapica,
PhD, RD, global director of nutrition at McDonald’s Corporation.
While most believe the book’s accusation to be false, the
finger was still pointed and McDonald’s paid a price in sales.
They responded with healthier menu choices and aggressive campaigning
for a more active lifestyle.
By the end of 2004, McDonald’s was the largest
fast food seller of salads at more than 300 million per year. “McDonald’s
has been serving salads since the late 1980s,” says Kapica.
“Eating trend data shows that people are eating more salads
as main dishes and that is reflected in our menu offerings.”
Kapica believes her company is motivated by her customers’
needs; this does include salads, although hamburgers and french
fries continue to be the top two foods people prefer to eat when
they are dining out.
In 2004, McDonald’s introduced Happy Meal
Choices to allow parents options when purchasing food for their
children. Apple Dippers, peeled slices of apples with low-fat caramel
dipping sauce, were introduced as an alternative to fries at no
extra charge. Low-fat milk, low-fat chocolate milk, and apple juice
were added to the menu. With the introduction of the Apple Dippers,
McDonald’s became the No. 1 distributor of apples in the United
States as well as the leading purchaser of apples in the restaurant
industry.
McDonald’s has recognized that many customers
are carbohydrate-conscious. One response has been offering hamburgers
and chicken wrapped in lettuce instead of a bun. McDonald’s
has also reduced the amount of trans fat in their Chicken McNuggets,
Crispy Chicken, and McChicken menu items. Trans fat information
has also been added to their nutrition materials.
McDonald’s is aware and concerned about obesity,
especially with their younger customers. For more than 20 years,
McDonald’s has partnered with the American Academy of Pediatrics,
the American Dietetic Association (ADA), and the Society for Nutrition
Education to provide nutrition education programs for children,
with the help of Ronald McDonald, the “chief happiness officer”
and “ambassador for an active, balanced lifestyle.”
Get Moving with Ronald has been shown in restaurants and communities
for the past two years. Ronald McDonald can also be seen on Nickelodeon
and The Cartoon Network inspiring children to be more active. Go
Active With Ronald McDonald will be launched this fall. It will
be a 30-minute interactive show emphasizing the importance of physical
activity through music, dance, and improvisation. The hope is that
Ronald McDonald’s popularity with children will help convince
them of the importance of exercise in leading a healthy lifestyle.
McDonald’s has had a partnership for several
years with Bob Greene, Oprah Winfrey’s personal trainer. Greene
has been a key force in promoting walking. It recently announced
an alliance with Rovenia Brock, PhD. She will support McDonald’s
in an education campaign to help consumers, especially African Americans,
better understand how to lead a balanced, active life. It is a global
initiative to promote energy balance in fun and simple ways as well
as connect McDonald’s with customers in relevant, culturally
significant ways around the world. The campaign has been named “it’s
what I eat and what I do … I’m lovin’ it”
(www.goactive.com) and will
be used to promote the new premium salad line.
Most of us can recall the lawsuit that made national
news: two overweight teenagers blamed McDonald’s for their
weight problem. While many agree that McDonald’s is not directly
responsible for our country’s rising obesity epidemic, the
lawsuit has created negative publicity. “Common sense tells
you this particular case makes no sense,” says Kapica. “The
key issue remains personal responsibility and making informed choices.
McDonald’s has been and continues to be a leader in providing
the information and food choices customers need to make informed
decisions.”
Wendy’s
Patty Wynkoop, RD, LD, has been director of research and development/nutrition
at Wendy’s International, Inc. for more than 17 years. During
that time, her role as a dietitian has expanded with the company’s
increased interest in nutrition. One of her jobs is to identify
trends in the food industry, rather than fads. She believes in a
balanced approach, and her philosophy is giving the consumer choices.
“Some have large appetites and want a hamburger or chicken
sandwich, and those who are watching their calories can choose a
salad with fat-free dressing or a fresh fruit bowl,” says
Wynkoop. She has found in her research that consumers want convenience
and choice. “Diners want a unique taste, for the right price.
They also want healthier choices, without sacrificing this taste,”
she says.
Wendy’s also tried to create a low-carbohydrate
line. The foods made it to market test, but as the low-carb fad
faded so did the program.
Like McDonald’s, Wendy’s is aware of
the childhood obesity crisis and as a result has revamped their
kid’s meals. Children can choose 1% chocolate milk or 2% milk
at no additional charge. Instead of french fries, kids can have
mandarin oranges.
Adults can also make substitution of chile, a baked
potato, or a side salad for French fries.
In fall 2004, Wendy’s partnered with the ADA
to create a series of tips and tools to help families make informed
choices when eating on the run, according to Kitty Munger, manager
of communications at Wendy’s International, Inc. The Eating
Better Together guide, created by Wendy’s with the ADA’s
guidance, provides tips to help families eat a nutritious diet and
still enjoy the great taste and convenience of quick service. The
guide can also be found on the back of all the tray mats in Wendy’s
restaurants as well as both the ADA’s Web site (www.eatright.org)
and Wendy’s Web site (www.wendys.com).
Burger King
Burger King, like its competitors, employs an RD to guide them.
“Burger King has been offering a full range of menu options
for decades; better known to the company as ‘Have It Your
Way,’” according to its nutritionist, Julie Haugen,
MS, RD, LD. “They can ‘Have It Your Way’ by ordering
a sandwich with no sauce, mustard instead of mayonnaise, low-fat
and fat-free salad dressings, a side salad instead of french fries,
or a burger without a bun,” says Haugen. Vegetarian burgers
from Morningstar Farms are a unique feature available to its customers.
Burger King also offers warm fire-grilled meats on salads with fresh
vegetables. Motts Applesauce, orange juice, or 1% milk is available
on the Kid’s Meals as well.
Haugen explains that Burger King R&D is looking
into oils to reduce or eliminate trans fat from their cooking. Their
concern is the resulting change in taste, texture, and mouth feel,
as well as the increased production of off flavors from frying.
The elimination of trans fat from baked products is also problematic
because shortening improves the texture and stability of their croissants
and biscuits.
Like its competitors, Burger King has partnered
with organizations to promote fitness as part of a healthy lifestyle.
Burger King participates in the President’s Council on Physical
Fitness, a program that educates kids in more than 200 schools nationwide.
Its Web site, www.bk.com, displays
tips and brochures for low-fat, low-calorie, and low-carbohydrate
eating choices.
For years, Burger King has displayed nutritional
information in all restaurants via posters and brochures and now
more recently through their Web site, where customers can use the
nutrition calculator to figure out the nutrition content items if
they “Have It Their Way.”
Despite the variety of healthier options available,
customers overwhelmingly prefer the Whopper Angus steak burgers,
Tendercrisp chicken, and other indulgent items, according to Haugen.
“On average, only three BK Veggie burgers are sold per restaurant
per day. It would be nice to see more health-conscious customers
coming in to purchase the Veggie burger,” she says.
Pizza Hut, KFC, Taco Bell,
A&W, and Long John Silver’s
Yum! Brands, Inc. (www.yum.com)
is the world’s largest restaurant company with more than 33,000
stores. The company’s restaurant brands include Pizza Hut,
Taco Bell, Kentucky Fried Chicken (KFC), Long John Silver’s,
and A&W. “Yum! is very concerned about the growing obesity
problem and has made strides to help the American people,”
according to Marilyn Schorin, PhD, RD, FADA, its chief nutrition
and regulatory officer for the past year. Schorin is responsible
for launching the Keep it Balanced program (www.keepitbalanced.com),
which looks at obesity from a lifestyle perspective. There are posters
throughout Yum! stores promoting a well-balanced diet, which includes
pizza, tacos, chicken, seafood, and burgers.
In December of last year, Yum! tried to motivate
people to become more physically active by launching a program with
Bally Total Fitness. Customers who visited their restaurant chains
could obtain a free, four-week membership to Bally Total Fitness
by presenting a proof of purchase receipt. Other programs Yum! has
introduced include nutritional brochures in restaurants, downloadable
nutritional information, and an activity calculator on the Internet.
Taco Bell has a health-conscious line of food items
available collectively named Fresco Style. It is a list of 15 items
with less than 10 grams of fat, which is achieved by substituting
cheese and sauce with salsa. Similarly, Pizza Hut has Fit ‘N
Delicious, which offers choices that are lower in carbohydrates
or fat. For example, the Carb Tracker pizza is an individual pizza
with 22 to 26 net carbohydrates. According to Schorin, this item
is decreasing in popularity, likely due to the fading fad of low-carbohydrate
diets. The lower-fat pizza, which has 25% less fat, has half the
amount of cheese, more tomato sauce, and lean meats and vegetables
for toppings. The Pizza Hut Fresh Express are prepackaged salads
for families on the run. KFC offers Tender Roast, a line of skinless,
white meat chicken. They also offer long-grain rice and green beans
as side dishes.
The idea behind these lighter fare programs is to
give customers options, specifically the family, which is the target
audience. “The problem is that while consumers report that
they want more healthy options in fast food restaurants, people
are not buying them,” according to Schorin. This has been
an ongoing trend. Ten years ago, Taco Bell launched a low-fat line,
Border Lights, which failed. Why? Schorin hypothesizes that people
want more indulgent items when they eat out and that Americans consider
dining outside the home a treat.
So what lies ahead for Yum!? Since the healthier
options have proven not to be as profitable as they hoped, are they
going to disappear? The answer is no, according to Schorin. She
hopes marketing in the future will be geared toward healthcare professionals
and that additional programs like Keep it Balanced will be created
and launched.
Joanne Lichten, PhD, RD, is a restaurant industry
consultant and author of Dining Lean, a book written to help the
consumer make healthier dining out choices. She believes the fast
food industry has made great strides in making more healthy options
available. “Having these options allows the consumer to drift
away from the dichotomous black-and-white thinking that foods are
either healthy or unhealthy, but rather promote the idea that there
is a place in the diet for every food.” The fast food industry
has clearly responded to consumer demands; however, the consumer
needs to “eat their words.”
The industry was first charged with developing healthier
foods, and now consumers somehow have to be convinced to buy them
before they disappear. Why are we not buying the healthier foods?
“Is it the taste?” asks Lichten. “Maybe it is
because people dine out to eat different foods than they make at
home; it is easy to make a fruit salad but impossible to make a
double Whopper with cheese.” Restaurants may have to be more
creative to increase sales, and so far the fast food industry has
failed to do this. According to Lichten, sales in fast food have
increased because people are spending more money when they go out,
not because more people are going. “The way to make more money
would be to get the health-conscious consumer into the restaurants.”
Fast food restaurants have responded to the demand
to create a menu for a healthier dining experience; now nutrition
educators face the challenge of trying to get their clients to purchase
these healthier foods. Where critics may be skeptical is that the
“good choices” haven’t totally displaced the “bad
choices.” The truth is that if consumers want a hamburger,
they will find one. Taking foods off the menus is not the answer;
it is teaching consumers not to order them. Americans have been
made aware of what they are eating and the potential consequences
of their choices, but unfortunately many are still not listening.
Time is running out. No one knows how much longer
the industry is going to be willing to put money into a market that
is not profiting. RDs have an obligation to their clients. The burden
has now drifted over to us; we have to somehow get the people who
dine at these restaurants to purchase the salads and other healthier
choices more often. Consumers that lead a fast food lifestyle should
take advantage of the healthier offerings, while indulging in the
french fries only occasionally. Healthcare providers can teach their
clients that they no longer have to avoid fast food restaurants
altogether.
Education is the key; consumers not only deserve
to know what foods they should be choosing but also why. By doing
our part, the fast food industry can continue to do theirs; providing
a balanced menu of options that includes salads, fruit, and the
occasional Big Mac.
— Stacey Freis, MS, RD, CNSD, CDN, is a
nutritionist at the Children’s Hospital of New York-Presbyterian
in New York City, consultant, and freelance writer.
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