Authentic Mexican Cuisine — More Than Chips and Salsa
By Carol Brannon, MS, RD, LD
Today’s Dietitian
Vol. 8 No. 5 P. 12

Cinco de Mayo is celebrated on a much larger scale in the United States than in Mexico, illustrating how Americans are adopting ethnic celebrations and authentic, traditional ethnic foods such as hoja tamal (dried corn husk), crushed tomatillas, red chili sauce, and nopalitos (cactus paddles).1

Two factors drive the interest in authentic ethnic foods: the increasing population and affluence of the Latino population—now roughly 13% of the U.S. population—and the cultural sophistication of Americans. While Latino origins include Puerto Rico, Central America, and Cuba, the Mexican American population is the largest Latino group. The challenge to dietitians is to understand and appreciate the foods associated with this subpopulation and incorporate sound nutrition principles into modern and traditional Mexican cuisine.

At the same time, dietitians can effectively introduce and recommend authentic Mexican cuisine to clients and consumers because it is, in general, healthier than the standard American diet.2 Authentic is the key word. Real Mexican cuisine is much more, and much better, than simply tacos and burritos.

Blended Origins
Generally speaking, authentic Mexican cuisine derives from the diets of indigenous people (primarily Aztec) and Spanish colonizers. The staple foods of the Aztecs were corn, legumes, various fruits and vegetables, and some meat. The Spanish introduced cinnamon, garlic, onions, rice, sugar cane, wheat, and domesticated fowl, cattle, and swine. These spices and foods were combined with traditional native foods to produce the Mexican cuisine we know today. For example, tomatoes, chilies, and onions were combined as salsa; and rice and beans were put together to make frijoles refritos, or refried beans.2-5 Pork and chicken became staples.

Mexican cuisine varies significantly throughout its geographical regions. Northern Mexico is characterized by mild flavors; cheese, beans, and beef are staples. Ceviches, pozoles, and chili poblanos are popular along the northern Pacific coast. The foods of the Gulf coast region (spicy sauces, coconut, and seafood) have a Creole flavor, and the Yucatan and southern regions show a Cuban influence, which itself combines Spanish, French, and native Caribbean influences.2-5

While a “typical” Mexican diet may vary greatly, it always includes a variety of plant foods used in sauces, soups, stews, and garnishes. In general, inland Mexicans prefer corn and amaranth, while those living in coastal areas prefer rice and beans.3,4 Vegetable protein, usually a combination of beans and corn, is a primary source of protein in the diet of people with little money.3 Let’s look at some ways these staples are utilized and analyze their nutritional benefits and concerns.

• Corn (maize) is the main indigenous staple food of Mexico, the one food that cannot be replaced.6 The following is a list of corn-based foods:

- Elotes: Roasted or boiled ears of sweet corn. They are often prepared on street-side grills and served with butter, mayonnaise, lemon juice, salt, chili pepper, or Tabasco sauce.

- Pinole: Roasted, mature corn kernels ground into a dry powder and eaten. Pinole was called traveling food because it was light and not perishable.

- Nixtamal: Hard, mature corn kernels soaked overnight in a pot of water and lime, then cooked to yield moist, soft, puffy kernels. The lime causes the corn skin to shed. Blue corn is often used.

- Masa: Nixtamal is ground to form masa, a moist, cream-colored paste.

- Tortillas: Made from masa that is formed and pressed into thin, round shapes and cooked on an ungreased comal, or griddle; the basic bread is ideally eaten hot off the comal.

- Tamales: Made from masa with lard added. Quadrangular “bags” are stuffed with various ingredients—often meat or bean paste—then wrapped in dry corn husks or banana leaves and steamed until the masa and stuffing are cooked.

- Taco: Made by folding a tortilla in half, frying it in grease or oil, and stuffing it with different ingredients such as meat, cheese, and/or beans.

- Quesadilla: Flour tortilla stuffed with shredded cheese, meat, and refried beans and folded in half, then toasted or fried. It is often cut into strips before serving.

- Huarache: Large, oblong stuffed food made from fried masa filled with yellowish bean paste.

- Gordita: Masa mixed with lard and stuffed with a variety of ingredients, then fried in oil or grease. In some parts of Mexico, gorditas are flavored with cinnamon and toasted on a comal.4-7

While corn tortillas—eaten in a variety of ways, including as bread, as wrappers for tacos and enchiladas, in casseroles, and for antojitos (appetizers), sopes, gorditas, tamales, and chilaquiles—are more traditional, wheat flour tortillas now dominate in northern and northwestern Mexico.5 Some Mexicans perceive corn tortillas as representing their Indian heritage and traditions, and wheat tortillas as European and North American, and therefore associated with culture and social advancement.6

• Beans are a staple food among all Latino cultures, with each distinctive culture preferring different beans. For example, southern Mexicans, Central Americans, Cubans, and Venezuelans favor black beans; pinto or pinta beans are more popular among northern Mexicans.8 Americans of Mexican heritage consume nearly 34 pounds of dry beans per capita compared with non-Hispanic whites, who consume only 6 pounds per capita.8

In Mexico, frijoles are prepared in various ways and served at almost every meal, even breakfast. They are an indispensable part of the diet, especially for Mexicans with low incomes. Beans are versatile and can be served as a side dish with tortillas or rice or included in soups, fritters, sauces, and in stuffed foods such as enchiladas and tamales.3,5

• Squash and squash flowers are staple foods in many areas of Latin America, including Mexico and South America. Summer squash includes crookneck, pattypan, and zucchini with thin, edible skins and soft seeds. Sauteing, steaming, baking, and deep-frying are common methods of preparation for summer squash. Winter squash includes acorn, buttercup, butternut, Hubbard, spaghetti, and turban, varieties with hard, thick skins and seeds, which must be removed before baking, steaming, or simmering.5,7

Squash flowers (flor de calabaza, “flower of the little squash”) can be used raw, but it is recommended to cook them and remove the green sepals around the base of each flower. Cooked squash flowers are used for quesadillas, soups, budines, tacos, crepes, and other dishes.5,7

• Chayote, a pear-shaped, gourdlike vegetable with a soft seed in the middle, was one of the basic foods of the Aztecs and Mayans. There are many varieties of chayote, ranging from small, pale yellow types to large, dark green varieties with prickles. This squash is a versatile vegetable, similar in taste to the zucchini, but has a firmer texture like kohlrabi.7 Chayote is used in soups and stews. It can be stuffed with cheese, breaded and fried, made into fritters, and even served as a dessert with sugar and dried fruits. It can also be used as a substitute for yellow summer squash or zucchini. The root of chayote, called chinchayote or chayotestle, is also prepared and eaten in different ways. Chayotes are grown in California, Florida, and Louisiana, where chayote is known as mirliton.5,7,11

• Chili peppers: Mexico is famous for its more than 140 varieties of chili peppers. Most people consider chili peppers vegetables, but they are technically a fruit. Not all peppers are “hot” and spicy. Within the past several years, there has been an increased demand for a variety of chili peppers from around the world. Chilies, as Americans are discovering, provide not only heat but also flavor, color, and texture.1,3,5,10

Chilies come in various sizes and are used fresh, dried, or smoked in Mexican cooking. Peppers have many uses, depending on their size and flavor or degree of “heat.” Large chili peppers, such as poblanos or chilacas, are often roasted, skinned, and stuffed with a variety of fillings. In addition, large chili peppers are cut into strips, pickled as a relish, toasted and ground dry to be used as a condiment, or toasted, ground, and mixed with other ingredients for cooked sauces and mole (mo-HAY), which is a rich, dark reddish-brown spicy sauce that is a blend of different chilies, onion, garlic, ground seeds, and Mexican chocolate.7 Small chilies are used whole with their skins and seeds left intact, with the exception of stuffed jalapenos, which must be skinned first. The small chilies are used in sauces, broths, rice, or beans.5,9 The following list highlights some common chili peppers:

- Ancho: Dried version of the green chili poblano; wrinkled, red-brown in color, and wide-shouldered; mellow, sweet taste like a bell pepper; small amount of heat. Add either julienned or pureed at the beginning of making a sauce for body and flavor.

- Chili de arbol: Dried red chilies; papery thin, long, dried; sold by the bag in U.S. supermarkets; very hot; added to soups and stews while cooking (can remove before eating).

- Chili Negro or Pasilla: Long, narrow, dark brown chili; medium hotness; fresh version is called chilaca chili; similar in taste to ancho; purchase whole or powdered in ethnic markets or through mail order; used with other chilies in moles and sauces.

- Chipotle: Dried, smoked, red jalapenos; wrinkled, reddish-brown in color; smoky, sweet taste; variety of uses: salsas, dressings, on meat.

- Chipotles en adobo: Dried chilies packed in sweet, sour, and spicy sauces; hotter than chipotle chilies and their texture is softer; can be used as substitute for chipotle; caution: very hot.

- Habanero: Considered the world’s hottest chili; small, usually lantern-shaped chili; used most often in Yucatan; color ranges from dark green to orange to red; found in sauces in fresh and dried forms.

- Red and Green Jalapeno: Bright red or green in color; small with thick flesh; fresh, sweet taste, medium heat; versatile (can be used for almost anything).

- Morita: Small, brown, dried jalapeno chilies; look like chipotles, but spicier; variety of uses such as in salsas and dressings.

- Poblano: Can range in color from green to almost black; flavor ranges from mild to snappy; darkest ones have richest flavor; variety of uses.5,7,9

In addition to providing flavor, chili peppers are considered functional foods for their proposed health benefits. Peppers exert a mild diuretic effect, which is believed to aid the removal of toxins from the body. Chili peppers are used to treat respiratory conditions. The hotter the chili pepper, the more capsaicin it contains.10 Habanero chilies are rated the hottest, followed by chili de arbol and jalapeno. Ancho, anaheim, and sweet bell peppers are considered mild.11 Capsaicin is widely used in arthritis ointments and rubs. Recent reports that it may also attack prostate cancer cells caused quite a stir. The following are the health benefits and medicinal uses of capsaicin:

• aids in pain relief by stimulating the brain to release endorphins, natural opiates;

• used topically in a cream to decrease the pain of shingles and arthritis;

• stimulates the flow of digestive juices;

• decreases blood pressure; and

• may prevent cancer development.10

Chilies are often consumed in salsa, a colorful, fresh sauce that is served as a condiment. To list all the varieties of Mexican salsas would be impossible. Salsa recipes, which include chilies, tomatoes, onions, cilantro, and other ingredients, vary regionally.5

• Native vegetables and fruits: Bananas, strawberries, oranges, mangoes, guavas, pineapples, papayas, coconuts, and melons are enjoyed as snacks or desserts. Dried, candied, and/or sugar-coated fruits, vegetables, and nuts are also popular.3,4,9

The following are native Mexican vegetables:

- Camotes (sweet potatoes): A variety of sweet potatoes are grown in Mexico; used in soups, stews, baked in hot ashes, boiled, or mashed with other ingredients such as pineapple.

- Calabacitas (little squash): Includes three types: blimp-shaped, pale green squash; round, green squash; and pear-shaped squash with vertical ridges; used in soups and stews and stuffed with meat, cheese, rice, or corn.

- Calabazas (pumpkins) and Pepitas (edible pumpkin seeds): Includes a variety of pumpkins that are smaller in size than pumpkins grown in the United States; vary in color—from pale green to dark purple; the flesh is used in soups, stews, and tamales; the seeds are salted and roasted after the hull is removed and eaten as a snack.

- Cebollas (onions): Most commonly used onion is a medium-sized, sharp white onion.

- Chaya (“tree spinach”): Green, leafy vegetable; cooked and eaten like spinach; used in a variety of dishes, soups, stews, and in tamales and as wraps for tamales; also used for its proposed medicinal properties to treat diabetes, obesity, kidney stones, hemorrhoids, constipation, and other conditions.

- Chayote: Pale, green, pear-shaped squash; used in soups and stews and stuffed with cheese, breaded and fried, or made into fritters; can be cooked as a dessert with sugar and dried fruits.

- Cuitlacoche or Hongo de maiz (corn fungus): A bulbous fungus that attacks ears of corn, especially during rainy season, resulting in kernels that swell to 10 times their normal size and turn kernels gray on the outside and black on the inside; corn fungus has an unappealing appearance; the flavor resembles a cross between corn and mushrooms; considered an exotic food; can be used in soups, tacos, quesadillas, budines, and other dishes.

- Jitomate (tomato): A variety of tomatoes are grown in Mexico; member of the nightshade plants, such as potatoes and eggplants; tomatoes are the fruit of the vine; used mainly for table sauces; are eaten raw, cooked in water or asado, which is cooking on an ungreased comal until slightly charred on the outside and mushy inside.

- Jicama: Brown-skinned root with a crisp, white flesh; bland tasting raw; it is cut up into sticks, sprinkled with salt, cayenne, and lime juice; sold as a snack in Mexico; can be used in salads or served with other raw vegetables.

- Nopales (cactus paddles): Edible cactus paddles from the prickly pear cactus plant; the needles are removed/shaved off; most often they are grilled.3-5,7,12

The following are native Mexican fruits:

- Avocado or aguacate: Native fruit of tropical areas; round or pear-shaped fruit with thick, pebbly green to purple or black skin with pale yellow-green flesh inside; buttery texture and mild nutlike taste; primary ingredient of guacamole.

- Chilacayote: Fruit of a climbing plant of the Cucurbitaceae family; pale green when small but color darkens as fruit matures on vine; inside is stringy with many black seeds; flesh has little flavor but has crisp texture; can be cooked as a vegetable or candied in sugar to make a dessert; seeds can be roasted, salted, and eaten as a snack.

- Guava: Round, yellow fruit with firm flesh and many small, hard seeds; can be canned; used is desserts, especially Ate, a fruit paste.

- Mexican limes or key limes: Sweeter than other limes; used for a variety of foods, including salsas, garnishes, marinating fish and chicken, and in margaritas.

- Plantain: Large, thick bananas that are used more like a starchy vegetable; can be fried, mashed, boiled, simmered, pureed, and baked into soups, stews, breads, and other dishes.

- Tomatillos (Mexican green tomato): Small, pale green, acidic fruits that are similar to green tomatoes when their thin husk is removed; used in green salsas or eaten raw or slightly cooked.

- Tunas or xoconostles: Fruit of the cactus of the genus Opuntia; small, pale green to pale pink fruit with an acidic taste and seeds in the center; seeds used in sauces; with skin and seeds removed, it is used in making desserts.3-5,7,12

• Meats: Marinating, chopping, thinly slicing, or grinding are popular ways to prepare meat, which can be grilled, fried, stewed, or steamed. Vegetables and cereals are frequently added and cooked with the meat. Ground meats are often used to make sausages. Pork sausage, seasoned with garlic, chili powder, and other spices, is called chorizo. Pork skin that is fried crisp is a popular food called chicharron.5 Chicharron is available in most U.S. supermarkets.

Seafood, including huachinango (red snapper) and camarones (shrimp), is a primary source of dietary protein in coastal regions.3,5

• Fats: Pork lard and vegetable shortening are the most popular types of fat used for frying and baking. Oils are used infrequently, but olive oil is sometimes used in Spanish dishes. Margarine and butter are used as table spreads and in some baked items.4,5

• Herbs and Spices: Indigenous aromatic herbs and spices, as well as those introduced from other countries, are combined with chilies, salt, pepper, various seeds, and other ingredients to contribute to the uniqueness and complexity of Mexican dishes. Cilantro, oregano (fresh and dried), and epazote are the most widely used herbs; cumin, cinnamon, mint, and parsley are also common.3

The following are frequently used Mexican herbs:

- Cilantro or coriander: Most important aromatic herb; introduced by the Spaniards; used fresh and coarsely chopped in fresh salsas and salads, sprinkled over Antojitos; adds flavor to many cooked dishes and moles.

- Epazote or Mexican tea or wormseed: A pungent, strong-tasting herb that grows like a weed; used fresh, not dried, in bean dishes, squash, quesadillas, and with mushrooms; considered a carminative, which means it reduces gas production; also used as a tea.

- Mexican oregano: Mexican oregano is different from the “true” oregano from the Mediterranean; includes a variety of small, soft, green-leafed plants that vary from region to region; a popular herb in Mexican cooking; used dried in various dishes.5,12

The following are frequently used Mexican spices:

- Annatto seed or achiote: Seeds of the tropical Bixa orellana tree; seeds are covered with layer of red pigment; used to add flavor and color to dishes; prepared for use in two ways, depending on the region in Mexico: whole seed is ground with other spices and formed into a paste called recado rojo or the seeds are boiled in water for hours until water evaporates and a concentrated red dye remains.

- Allspice (regional names: Pimienta gorda, Pimienta de Jamaica, Pimienta de la tierra, Xocoxochitl): Allspice berry comes from the Pimenta dioica tree that grows in lowland areas near the Gulf of Mexico; the berries are picked when they are mature, but not ripe, then dried; used ground with other spices in a paste or whole in pickles and stews.

- Anise Seed: Seed of the Pimpinella anisum or anis plant; used in a variety of traditional dishes, including moles, and in fillings for stuffed foods; used whole as a flavoring in dessert syrups or in some yeast rolls.

- Canela (cinnamon): Flaky bark of Cinnamomum verum tree; used whole with cooked fruits, dessert syrups, used ground as part of seasonings for meats, stews, and moles, and in powdered form it is sprinkled on desserts or sweet meats.

- Cloves: Aromatic dried flower buds of the Syzygium aromaticum tree; used whole for pickles or cooked with fruit.

- Coriander seeds: Small, brown seeds of the coriander plant (the green leaves of this plant are cilantro—see above); used whole mainly in pickling or ground with other spices in moles.

- Cumin: Ground cumin seeds, known as cominos, are used in a variety of Mexican dishes, including cooked sauces and seasoning pastes; most recipes call for whole seeds.

- Ajo (garlic): Used in Mexican dishes of Spanish origin such as chicken or shrimp en ajillo, and sopa de ajo (garlic soup).

- Peppercorns (regional names: Pimienta negra, Pimienta chica, Pimienta de Castilla): Fruit of Piper nigrum, a climbing vine native to India; used whole in pickles and in some meat or fish broths; used ground in cooked sauces such as moles; not used as a condiment.5,12

• Nuts, seeds, and seasoning pastes: In Mexico, nuts and seeds are eaten as snacks, but more importantly they are used to thicken sauces and moles. Peanuts, pecans, walnuts, almonds, pepitas (pumpkin seeds), annatto seeds, tamarind seeds, and coconut are the most popular. Nuts and seeds are ground and mixed with herbs and/or spices, then moistened with water, vinegar, or the juice of bitter oranges, and formed into pastes in the shape of cakes or balls. Annatto seeds are used to make achiote paste. These spicy pastes (recados) can be used in various ways, including as a spread on fish or meat and as a thickener for sauces or moles. Only a small amount is needed for seasoning, so extra can be refrigerated for future use.5,12

• Desserts: Many Mexican desserts, such as flan, are modified versions of Spanish desserts. Sugar and eggs are key ingredients in many Mexican desserts. Sugar cane grows extremely well in tropical Mexico.3

• Beverages: Coffee is the most popular beverage in Mexico, but hot chocolate with cinnamon is also common. Milk is rarely consumed as a beverage.3 Soft drinks and aguas naturals, water blended with fresh fruit and sugar, are popular cold beverages.12

The popularity of authentic ethnic dishes is expected to increase in upcoming years. We will also experience “fusion foods,” which combine the cuisine of different regions and cultures. Understanding the basic terminology is just the beginning.

— Carol Brannon, MS, RD, LD, is a consulting dietitian at Fowler YMCA and in private practice in Georgia.

References
1. Cinco de Mayo. Available at: http://latino.sscnet.ucla.edu/cinco.html. Accessed March 23, 2006.

2. Uhl S. Designing for the Hispanic market. Food Product Design; p. 4; March, 1996. Available at: http://www.foodproductdesign.com/archive/1996/0396PR.html

3. Kittler PG, Sucher KP. Food and Culture, 3rd Ed. Belmont, Calif.: Wadsworth/Thomson Learning, 2001.

4. Barer-Stein T. You Eat What You Are: People Culture and Food Traditions, 2nd Ed. Willowdale, Ontario: Firefly Books Ltd., 1999.

5. Kennedy D. From My Mexican Kitchen, Techniques and Ingredients. New York: Clarkson Potter/Publishers, 2003.

6. Corn-based foods. Available at: http://www.mexicanmercados.com/food/cornfood.htm. Accessed March 24, 2006.

7. Herbst ST. The New Food Lover’s Companion. Barron’s Cooking Guide. Hauppauge, N.Y.: Barron’s Educational Series, Inc., 2001.

8. 1994-96, 1998 Continuing Survey of Food Intake by Individuals (CSFII). Agriculture Research Service; U.S. Department of Agriculture, 2000. Available at: http://www.barc.usda.gov/bhnrc/foodsurvey/Cd98html

9. Bishop J, Canella C, Dunmore H, et al. Cooking Around the World All-in-One For Dummies. New York: Wiley Publishing, Inc, 2003.

10. Siple M. Healing Foods for Dummies. Foster City, Calif.: IDG Books Worldwide, l999.

Examination

1. The increased interest in authentic ethnic foods in the United States:
a. is influenced by the increasingly culturally diverse U.S. population.
b. is related to the fact that U.S. consumers are more culturally sophisticated.
c. may be related to the fact that traditional ethnic diets are generally healthier than the standard American diet.
d. is evident as more “authentic” ethnic foods appear on shelves.
e. all of the above.

2. The staple foods of Mexico include all of the following except:
a. beans and corn.
b. a variety of peppers.
c. tomatoes.
d. tropical fruits.
e. milk and yogurt.

3. __________ is hard, mature corn kernels that have been soaked overnight in a pot of water and lime, then cooked to yield moist, soft, puffy kernels.
a. Nixtamal
b. Masa
c. Pinole
d. Elotes
e. Huarache

4. ___________ is a rich, dark reddish-brown spicy sauce that is a blend of different chilies, onion, garlic, ground seeds, and Mexican chocolate.
a. Salsa
b. Mole
c. Pinole
d. Camotes
e. Frijoles

5. Chicharron is:
a. chicken and pork sausage.
b. barbequed beef.
c. fried pork skin.
d. fried shrimp.
e. fried fish.

6. The hottest chili pepper is the:
a. habanero.
b. chipotle.
c. ancho.
d. jalapeno.
e. morita.

7. The most popular and widely used herbs and spices in Mexican cuisine include:
a. cilantro and oregano (fresh and dried).
b. cilantro and epazote.
c. cumin, oregano, and cilantro.
d. cinnamon, mint, parsley, and oregano.
e. all of the above.

8. ___________ is/are commonly used as thickeners for soups and sauces in Mexican cuisine.
a. Corn and beans
b. Tomatoes and flour
c. Nuts and seeds
d. Tapioca
e. All of the above

9. _______ is a gourdlike fruit with a soft seed in the middle, commonly referred to as a squash.
a. Chayote
b. Jicama
c. Masa
d. Camotes
e. Pepitas

10. “Fusion foods” are:
a. “Americanized” versions of ethnic foods.
b. popular foods that combine the flavors of different regions and cultures.
c. foods in which traditional spices are replaced with “Americanized” spices.
d. are healthier (low-fat and low-sodium) versions of ethnic foods.
e. trendy foods whose popularity is decreasing.