Frozen
Convenience Foods — They’ve Come a Long Way, Baby
By Carol M. Meerschaert, RD, LDN
Today’s Dietitian
Vol. 7 No. 4 P. 30
Lemon pepper fish and carrots with dill. This
is not your mother’s TV dinner. Calorie- and portion-controlled
frozen convenience foods are here to stay.
It is 2005 and June Cleaver, who wore pearls and
cooked every meal at home for Ward and the boys, has been replaced
by Lorali Gilmore, a single mother and business owner who calls
for take-out to feed herself and her daughter. Then there’s
Gerard Hickey, a systems administrator who often works 12-hour days.
Hickey tries to eat healthy meals and is concerned about nutrition.
“The nights when I arrive home at 8 pm, I need to eat quickly,”
he says.
Television’s Gilmore and real-life Hickey
are typical of many of our clients who have found that a full-time
job is now much more than 40 hours per week. In addition, Hickey
says that less than one-half of professionals he works with take
a “lunch hour” break. Many eat a bagged or microwaved
lunch in their cubicles, if they eat at all.
Many students can be seen using the microwave at
middle schools and high schools to heat a frozen entree. Sarah Coughlin,
a 17-year-old, takes a Lean Cuisine pizza with her when she works
an eight-hour shift at the clothing store. There is a microwave
in the break room, and she saves time and money compared with eating
at a restaurant and still gets to enjoy a hot lunch.
Today’s families are reaching for the frozen
food entree more often than the cookbook, so today’s dietitians
need to know what is healthy and exciting in the frozen food aisle
and what to tell clients to help them make better food choices.
Many articles suggest that convenience foods should
be a last resort. However, food that is well-prepared and quick-frozen
can be every bit as nutritious as a so-called fresh food that has
been sitting in the refrigerator for one week and for who knows
how long on a loading dock and in transit. This is not to criticize
fresh foods. I am a huge fan of buying locally grown food and supporting
local food companies. When Johnston and Bowling published their
orange juice study in the Journal of the American Dietetic Association
in 2002, people were surprised that the frozen orange juice retained
more vitamin C than the ready-to-serve.1 The message is that there
is not one blanket statement that can be made with regard to convenience
foods.
It’s Not Nutrition If You
Don’t Eat It
What is more nutritious? Well, it depends. Fresh-from-the-farm veggies
cooked that night (especially those easily oxidized) should retain
more nutrients than foods that have been sitting around. But a frozen
vegetable should compare well with a “fresh” one that
has aged a bit. Nutritionists can customize messages regarding convenience
foods by looking at what is locally available, local pricing, and
what is practical for that particular client.
A dietitian cliche is that food only becomes nutrition
when it is eaten. So if a client buys broccoli and it sits in the
home refrigerator produce drawer because the consumer does not find
the time to cook it, then it provides zero nutrition. The frozen
dinner containing broccoli that the consumer has found time to cook
and eat at least provided some nutrients.
Convenience, Dollars, and Time
At one time, frozen food was considered expensive, and people believed
they could save money by cooking from scratch at home. A PubMed
search found many interesting articles regarding cost per nutrient
from foods. In these analyses, home-prepared foods often came out
on top moneywise. However, the ultimate convenience food, ready-to-eat
cereal, did well in its analysis. But these studies examined only
the food cost and not the labor cost. For a working adult, the opportunity
cost of time cooking vs. working may actually make using prepared
foods cheaper than cooking from scratch.
I love to make homemade macaroni and cheese. My
usual recipe costs me almost $5 for the pasta, milk, flour, oil,
and cheese. In a Falmouth, Me., supermarket, frozen versions run
from 89 cents to $2.19 for a single-serving frozen version. I would
compare my recipe with the Stouffer’s red box version that
costs $1.49. So, if I bought three boxes of the Stouffer’s,
the total cost would be $4.47. Add in the cost of energy to cook
vs. reheat in a microwave, and moneywise, the frozen version is
way ahead. Factor in time and there is no comparison. I will never
give up making my own homemade macaroni and cheese, as I like it
best and value the love I show by cooking for my kids. But the point
is that when dietitians are counseling clients and writing articles,
they can no longer assume convenience foods are more expensive than
home cooking.
How many bathrooms does your home have? How many
telephones do you own? Televisions? Computers? I am leading the
charge for every home to contain at least two microwaves. Mine does.
If the stove has four burners to cook four items, I can see many
people popping a separate entree in each microwave for each family
member. People have morphed family dinner into the “food court”
experience where they can each choose different foods just like
at the mall food court. Also, a multimicrowave setup allows for
the entrees to be cooking in one microwave while the frozen veggies
are cooking in another. While writing this article, I reheated my
coffee in one microwave while reheating my leftovers in another.
Frozen Entrees for Calorie Control
The frozen meal designed to control calories and deliver nutrition
is a product category that was introduced when I became an RD in
the early ’80s. I remember the splash when Lean Cuisine frozen
entrees were introduced in 1981. Let’s set the stage. For
those of us ancient enough to remember the phrase “TV dinner,”
the early ’80s was when we had just learned how to use our
oversized, underpowered microwave to do more than reheat a cup of
coffee. This new food product idea was a huge deal. Frozen food
manufacturers moved the focus from 100% convenience to adding nutritional
value to convenience.
Meanwhile, according to the ConAgra Foods Web site,
after CEO Charles M. (“Mike”) Harper suffered a mild
heart attack in 1985, he began a search for foods that satisfied
both his taste and health needs—leading to Healthy Choice
foods. The first line of Healthy Choice products debuted in 1988,
consisting of 10 frozen meals. We have come a long way since then.
A quick search on the Internet will show how popular
these meals are. You find the frozen-food diet on Good Housekeeping
magazine’s Web site and the NBC4 “Channel 4 News Diet,”
which offers a frozen “diet” meal option for lunch and
dinner.2 This balanced 1,200-calorie diet offers the option of a
sandwich with salad and a piece of fruit for lunch or using “one
frozen portion-controlled diet meal” and adding one piece
of fruit. Dinner can be a variety of reasonable choices or simply
choosing a frozen meal and adding 2 cups of salad greens and one
piece of fruit.
Control My Portions, Please!
With the continuing popularity of these frozen entrees, nutrition
professionals are certainly asked about the “diet frozen dinner”
as a weight-loss tool. A group at the University of Illinois led
by research dietitian Sandra M. Hannum, MS, RD, examined the efficacy
of a weight-loss diet using packaged portion-controlled entrees
compared with a self-selected diet based on the USDA Food Guide
Pyramid (FGP).3 The researchers found that the 26 women in this
study who ate the “diet” meals achieved significantly
more weight loss, fat mass loss, and decreases in total cholesterol
and fasting insulin than the 27 matched women following a diet based
on the FGP. The researchers credited the portion control from the
prepackaged meals as a factor in the success of this weight-loss
strategy. “Portion distortion” is often cited as a possible
contributor to obesity, and if this is true, then having only single-portion
options may be a worthwhile weight-loss strategy.
Research conducted by Barbara Rolls, PhD, confirms
that portion control is a factor in weight management.4,5 She shows
that both energy density and portion sizes add to calorie intake.
Her research led her to write the new book The Volumetrics Eating
Plan: Techniques and Recipes for Feeling Full on Fewer Calories
(HarperCollins). When asked what advice to give clients to help
round out a frozen entree (lean or regular) so they feel full while
not having to do much cooking or planning, Rolls suggests adding
extra fruits, veggies, and a low-calorie yogurt. “They should
eat 400 to 500 calories at lunch or dinner on most plans,”
explains Rolls. The frozen dinners and entrees I examined usually
contained between 300 and 450 calories, so a bit of extra food is
necessary. Interestingly, that is just what the online diets mentioned
above suggest. Another online resource RDs might find useful is
the Slim-Fast Web site. The Sensible Meal chart gives an easy way
for clients to plan their own 500-calorie meals (www.slim-fast.com/plan/sensible_meal.asp).
Making Choices
All frozen entrees and dinners offer the benefit of portion control.
Should RDs steer clients toward the “lean” and “healthy”
choices? If weight loss involves counting calories, why would a
consumer choose, for example, a Lean Cuisine meal with 330 calories
(the vegetable egg rolls) instead of a red box Stouffer’s
meal that has 320 calories (the classic macaroni and cheese)? Tricia
Edwards, RD, LD, registered dietitian for Lean Cuisine, says, “Both
meals are convenient, both taste great, and both fit into a balanced
diet. We think people really want good food that’s satisfying
and nourishing.” In other words, it depends on the client’s
goals, and all foods can fit in a healthy diet.
If the client’s goal is simply weight control,
then counting calories is the thing. If they have other goals, they
can easily choose meals that meet the federal definition of “healthy,”
meaning that they must contain less than 3 grams of fat per 100
grams of food, no more than 30% of calories from fat, and offer
a sodium content of less than 600 milligrams.
Frozen Futures
The frozen calorie-controlled entree has come a long way. Healthy
Choice now offers 76 entree and dinner choices, the Lean Cuisine
line has 100 items, and Smart Ones has approximately 55. According
to the corporate dietitians, these meals are constantly improved
and innovative ideas are put into place to keep up with consumer
trends. Patty Packard, MS, RD, LMNT, senior nutritionist for the
ConAgra Foods Nutrition Center of Excellence, explains that foods
seen in a restaurant today may be in the frozen food aisle tomorrow.
Healthy frozen meals are also formulated to be “infused with
flavor” by the use of herbs so they can maintain a lower sodium
content and still appeal to the educated palate of today’s
consumer.
Choices abound in the frozen meal category. Choose
an Asian meal such as Pad Thai with tofu or Green Guru Channa Masala.
Vegetarians can choose from the old-fashioned macaroni and cheese
to a meatless chili and cornbread or spicy Thai veggie pizza. Some
meals are organic and others vegan. Choices such as Creamy Basil
Chicken, Teriyaki Steak Beef Tips Portabello, Lemon Pepper Fish,
or Mesquite Chicken Barbecue further illustrate the multitude of
choices and flavors available. This is a far cry from meat loaf
and mashed potatoes—although that favorite is still available,
too.
The increased emphasis on the benefit of whole grains
seen in the revised Dietary Guidelines is already being addressed
by the eight new Spa Cuisine entrees from Lean Cuisine that contain
two servings of whole grains per entree. Edwards says, “We
continue to track scientific and culinary developments and then
introduce items that reflect what’s going on in our consumers’
world.”
What is the future of these meals? Packard explains
that “they have stood the test of time” as they are
increasingly popular 20 years after their debut. Packard expects
to see nutritional concerns from omega-3 fats to phytosterols becoming
factors in the formulation of foods in the years to come.
— Carol M. Meerschaert, RD, LDN, is a freelance
writer and consultant in Falmouth, Me.
References
1. Johnston CS, Bowling DL. Stability of ascorbic acid in commercially
available orange juices. J Am Diet Assoc. 2002;102(4):525-529.
2. Frozen Food diet. Available at: http://magazines.ivillage.com/goodhousekeeping/print/0,,290233,00.html.
3. Hannum SM, Carson L, Evans EM, et al. Use of portion-controlled
entrees enhances weight loss in women. Obes Res. 2004;12(3):538-546.
4. Kral TV, Roe LS, Rolls BJ. Combined effects of energy density
and portion size on energy intake in women. Am J Clin Nutr.
2004;79(6):962-968.
5. Rolls BJ, Roe LS, Meengs JS. Salad and satiety: Energy density
and portion size of a first-course salad affect energy intake at
lunch. J Am Diet Assoc. 2004;104(10):1570-1576.
Practical Tips
When dinner or lunch must be quick, how can that frozen meal or
entree easily be turned into a fast, delicious, nutritious meal?
The RDs from the Dietitians in Business and Communications dietetic
practice group weigh in on what you can do to add to your frozen
meal:
“Shredded cabbage in a bag topped with a nice
salad dressing is an easy way to add a cruciferous vegetable without
having to cook it. Use a handful of baby carrots for dipping into
the sauce that comes with frozen meals such as low-fat lasagna.”
— Tricia Silverman, MBA, RD, LDN
“Pair the entree with in-season fruits or
vegetables. Ready-to-eat packaged salads are another great option.”
— Amanda Archibald, MS, RD
“Have a few bites of cheese and a wholesome
cracker as an ‘appetizer’ of sorts.
Add a broth-based canned soup (low-sodium, low-fat).
Purchase a whole grain roll or bread and eat [it]
with dinner.”
— Robin Plotkin, RD, LD
“Vegetables steamed in the microwave with
a little basil or oregano and portion-controlled fruit cups packed
in light syrup or its own juice or fresh-cut fruit from the produce
section.”
— Jennifer Shoemaker, MS, RD, LDN
“Open a can of asparagus or peas or some other
canned vegetable that can be heated in the microwave really quickly.
Cut some parsley or green onion or cilantro or other
herb over the dish to liven it up.”
— Sharon B. Salomon, MS, RD
“Add a glass of skim milk—not fancy, but adds some needed
nutrients and calories for filling up.”
— Heidi McIndoo, MS, RD, LDN
“I have been a fan of the Lean Cuisine frozen
dinners with double the vegetables. I used them a lot when my job
required me to travel, so I wasn’t always eating a huge restaurant
dinner. I would often add a fruit and/or roll.”
— Jessica Cylkowski, RD, CD
“Add 1 ounce to 2 ounces of trail mix, almonds,
sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, or walnuts; grapes, a melon wedge,
banana, or 1/2 cup of berries (just wash and serve); a yogurt, string
cheese, or cottage cheese pack (preportioned and ready to go); or
cherry tomatoes with low-fat dressing.”
— Kate Geagan, MS, RD
“My favorite is frozen veggies. Mix them with
the frozen entree.”
— Lauren Balkin Stern, MS, RD, CDN
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